Day 1 - Home - Dover - Maastricht (visit family)

Day 2 - Ride through Germany in pouring rain (motorway)

Day 3 - Austria via Vienna and then into Hungary.Stayed at Gyor.

Day 4 - East across north Hungary nipping into Slovakia for a while. Dropped south to Debrecan. Due East across the border into Romania. Staying at a new, cheap but very comfortable hotel near Carei.

Day 5 - East across Romaina (Surduc, Garbou, Bistrita to the start of the Carpathean mountain route at Vatra Dornei.

Then south through the mountains - Borca - Bicaz (Lake Izvorul).

Day 6 - Continued through the mountains via Gheorgheni, Brasov, Bran (Supposed Dracula's place of Origin) Then onto Corbeni for the Transfagarasan route.


Day 7 - North along the Transfagarasan 'motorway', Ten south when reached 1750m due to snow blocking the road.
Traveled north through Sibiu to Cluj-Napoca.

Day 8 - West to Oradea, then south through Arad and Stopped at Timisoara.

Day 9 - Into Hungary, via Szeged and Budapest. Into Vienna (or Wien).

Day 10 - Linz and then NW to Passau.

Day 11 - Up through Germany in Belgium.

Day 12 - Home.


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I did the ride solo. Its only my 3rd solo ride as I normally travel with friend(s). I did it because I have wanted to ride the Carpathean mountains for about 5 years when I got a romantic notion in my head after seeing an old black and white Dracula movie.

The first thing that hits you about Romaina is the condition of the roads. They are extremely bad. Potholes every where and on one occasion just 2 miles of hard core/gravel.
On Day 6 I met 2 German riders. One was on a Buel. Both wheels (Aluminum) where damaged by the road conditions. Tyre kept inflated by use of a can of puncture spray foam.

I had put new brake pads in for the ride. On day 4 the rear pads were fine when I did a bike check. By day 7 they were down to about 1mm ! Overuse due to the gravel/grit road surfaces and constant braking to avoid huge holes in the road. Teach me for buying cheap pads off fleabay I suppose.

The second thing is that its like traveling back in time 60 years.
The Towns are modern, but the rural areas are VERY rural. Also the preferred means of transport appears to be Horse and Cart.

The Carpathean mountains themselves are pretty. And in places very impressive. BUT, I have to say there are places closer to home that are just as good if not better.

The roads let it down. Although they twist and turn, the potholes make for slow riding.

The Transfagarasan Motorway was claimed by some fat, opinionated TV journo to be the best road in the world.
Something the Romainian people have picked up on.

Not the bit I saw.

I came up from the south but had to stop near its highest point (about 1750m) as it was closed due to snow. Even though the GS got through some of the less problematic snow drifts.. I called it a draw when death by slipping off the mountains seemed inevitable.

Perhaps the best bits were further north. I don't know, and I doubt I will return to find out. For me Stelvio still wins the title.


I found the roads from Oradea to Timisoara very dull indeed. Flat, straight and bugger all to look at. Bit like all of Hungary.


People: normally I can strike up a conversation with anyone. I found it difficult to engage with Romanian people for some unknown reason. Perhaps it was me.

I did speak to the 'Roma' as they traveled on their horse and carts and found them to be friendly and helpful (those that spoke English that is).


Police: Seemed to be everywhere. I got a tad paranoid at first as when I'd stop a police car would appear and park up nearby. This happened a lot. I presume they were making sure I was OK because I was never stopped or even followed.

Accommodation: plenty of it and good value for money.

Petrol: Not much cheaper than the UK.

Bike Shops : Few and far between. Unless you are in one of the larger towns and are riding a scooter.

If you go near Cluj and need spares got to Motoland.ro - VERY VERY helpful. Chap even gave me a DVD of his travels and one of the Romanian Red Bull eXtreme Competition.


All in all - certainly worth the effort. But I doubt I will be rushing back. At least my wife no longer has to listen to me bang on about The Carpathean Mountains.

The rides in Austria were much better. I loved the road between Grein and Linz as it runs alongside the river.