I’ve been riding for about twenty years, and have been to Scotland and Wales on my bike a few times, but it has always been to go somewhere and never for an adventure. Over the last few years I’ve only ridden my bike to commute and decided that I needed to travel more on it. I’ve owned my trusty steed for eight years, a slightly tired 2000 X reg BMW F650 but with three kids, and a wife that works only part time, it’s going to have to last for a few more years. Over the winter last year, I built myself some aluminium panniers based on the ones I found on a travel website, rtwxtz660 if you are interested in building something similar. All I would say is, if you are going on a round the world trip, they are the right size. For my small bike they were a bit big.

I live just off the M25 in Hertfordshire but come from the North of Scotland and rather than using easy jet or the train to go home to visit family I decided to take the bike on this occasion. My route was intended to be bike friendly and away from main roads if possible. It could be done quicker than I did it because I was visiting friends and family trying to spend a little time with them.

The night before.
I get home on Sunday evening after camping on a Duke of Edinburgh’s Expedition and gt my camping gear out to air. I check the weather forecast - wind and rain was forecast for every place I was planning to visit. Rather than chance my summer riding suit and waterproofs I decide to take my heavyweight waterproof one. After the bad news of the weather forecast I can’t be bothered to pack and decide to leave it until the morning.

Day 1 28th June 2010 Rickmansworth to Gretna Green
At home, the weather forecast is 29 degrees but the rain is due at 4 o’clock in the lakes. I’m a bit late in leaving home and decide to go a little cross country for the first few miles to get use to the bike fully loaded rather than getting straight on the motorway. A good move as it handles so differently. The further north I get the cooler and greyer it gets. For once the weather forecast is spot on as at 4 in the lakes it rains. As I’d been camping over the weekend, I could not be bothered camping again in the rain and I did not want to get my kit wet on the first night so I pushed on getting to Gretna Green where I decided to opt for Bed and Breakfast. Got robbed at the petrol station on the M6 at Chorley paying 125.6p per litre about 12p more than what I pay at home. Mileage for day: 313 miles.

Day 2 29th June Gretna Green to Oban
Started the day with a cracking cooked breakfast at the B and B. Overcast and a dry day with damp roads. Plodded up the boring motorway through Glasgow and over the Erskine Bridge. After this I knew - no more motorway for over a week - hurray. Through Helensburgh and up past Loch Lommond, the road was so great, I could not force myself to stop even to take a photograph. Even fully loaded I was riding the bends properly and on a couple, was overtaken by some sports bikes. On a twisty bit after a brilliant overtake I got that chug, chug, reminder to put petrol in switching on to reserve. After a few miles I stopped outside a big house and spoke to some locals. Petrol was 11 miles ahead or 12 miles behind. I reckoned I had about 14 left so went ahead slowly sticking to 40. I made it to Tyndrum where there was an excellent very reasonable cafe. By the way in the middle of nowhere, the petrol was still substantially cheaper than the M6 at Chorley. After a break, push on towards Oban on some more lovely roads. Just as I get into the town I think to myself, what’s that noise? I pull up to investigate just outside the Police Station and realise my exhaust has blown a gasket. I think it is where the two front pipes join. I go to my friend’s house and we find out there is a small bike shop in the town. Unfortunately the mechanic does not want to touch the manifold as one side has corroded threads. Slap on some exhaust paste and it seems to work as a temporary stop gap and reduces the noise. Spend the night with my friend and kids grabbing a very nice pizza down at the harbour. Total mileage: 525.

Day 3 30th June Oban to Ullapool
Dry with light cloud but rain forecast in the afternoon. When I was planning my route I was really looking forward to this part of the journey and it exceeded my expectations. Quite a nice road to Ballahullish but could not really get into the grove between there and Fort William. The road from Fort William to Mallaig was amazing, far better than Loch Lommond. I wanted to keep the revs down so I did not blow the exhaust again. It kept crossing the railway line used in the Harry Potter films and at various parts there were lots of people taking pictures of the steam train. A special thanks to my brother Gary as he helped build all the new bridges on this road! Stopped for lunch in Mallaig while, waiting for the ferry. I went into a fish and chip shop and got an amazing Salmon sandwich which was washed down with a can of Irn Bru.
Whilst the queue for the ferry to Skye builds up a number of bikes start appearing. In total thirteen from four different countries. We all get loaded on first and strapped up before the cars. All the bikers show a sense of companionship and take pictures of each other.

Over to Skye and some more lovely roads. Not sure if the Germans and Norwegians are taking it easy but take the opportunity to pop some overtakes on them. Back to the mainland at Kyle and head towards Strathcarron. All I can say is, I may now live just outside London but my heart is always in the Highlands. When I come to places like this the feeling to move back home is so strong.

I stopped with cramp and took a photo I walked up to the bike and saw a nail sticking in the back tyre. If you look close you can even see it. It was in the thickest part of the tread so I gritted my teeth and pulled it out. Luckily it was a roofing felt nail, quite short and did not deflate the tyre. No more dramas other than cracking roads before arriving at Loch Broom campsite in Ullapool. Managed to get something to eat and get settled in my tent before the weather changed for the worst but no rain. Total mileage: 730.

Day 4 Thursday 1St July
Gusting winds most of the night, banging against the tent giving me very little sleep. I decided I had enough at 5 o’clock getting up showering, breakfast and packing while the people in the campervans were all sound asleep. I met the owner doing his early morning rounds, paid up and got going. There was still no real rain but the wind seemed to be building. I’ve ridden in all types of weather, sun, snow, ice, rain it does not really bother me but wind does; I hate it. As I was cleared Rhiconnich I was riding at 20mph due to the wind, both feet down with the bike leaning over as if I was high speed cornering. Even the sheep were sheltering in the ditches. After Durness, it eased off considerably. I stopped at Tongue for a drink and met two other bikers who were doing a round the coast ride for child line after starting in Arbroath eight days ago. One of them had just passed his bike test and thought the wind was great. Obviously had a screw loose in my opinion. A short stop further along the coast stopping at my sister’s in Bettyhill. Found out that the weather had been so bad, a few people in the village had lost their computers to thunderstorms over the last few days. Total mileage: forgot to record.

Day 5 Friday 2nd July
Woke up to brilliant sunshine and went for stroll along the beach. After breakfast there was another thunderstorm with torrential rain delaying my departure for a few hours. I decided to take the minor road down through Strathnaver. However I did get a warning from my brother in law, who had to replace the faring on his Triumph last year, to watch the gravel in the passing places. I can confirm that this is sound local knowledge and ignore it at your peril. It was not a fast flowing road but worth it for the scenery. If it had been very hot it gave plenty opportunities to stop at the side of the road and have a dip in the river.

Headed south, stopping at Tain for a snack passing the Glenmorangie distillery if you’re into whisky, I’m not so opted for a cup of tea instead. Finally went all the way down to Inverness where I stopped with my parents for a few days. A break from riding for a few days catching up with family. Total mileage 977.

Day 6 Tuesday 6th July
Unfortunately time to say goodbye to the Highlands and head back home. I did not get far as my friend from Oban was mountain biking in Aviemore so I stopped for tea with him. Then down the fantastic A9 but had very dark clouds all the way to Blair Atholl before I saw any real sunshine. Unfortunately, the wind picked up again as I approached the Forth Road bridge. I dropped a gear to keep the revs up and blew the exhaust gasket again. After Edinburgh I headed for Jedburgh on the A68. Imagine my horror when I saw the road was going through the middle of a windmill farm that was going full pelt. Yes it was windy.
After Jedburgh, I crossed into England going past Kielder forest. Then came the signs, warning, blind bend, big dip, 75 accidents in the last 3 years. Excellent, a biking road. Shame about the wind and being loaded up. I would recommend it if the weather is good and your bike is not fully loaded up. Finished the day at a travel lodge in Skeeby on the A1. Why is it so hard to get my bike on the centre stand? Where did that bit of metal come from, hope it’s not off my bike? I’ll keep it just incase. I put some more exhaust paste over the joint in the hope it seals the leak for tomorrow. Total mileage: 1309.

Day 5 Wednesday 7th July
Not a very good night’s sleep in the travel lodge. The few bits of food I had did not really set me up for the day. I fired up the bike and it sounded OK and set off down the A1. Again it was windy but the bike felt terrible. I did not know if it was me so decided to stop for a bacon roll - I felt better but the bike did not. Not far to go today so just plodded home down the A1M.
Rather than going straight home I went via my local bike shop and booked my bike in to get my exhaust and rusty nuts sorted out. The mechanic said, “What’s wrong with your bike John. It looks as if it’s not sitting properly?” I replied, “Its fine, it’s just because it is loaded up” When I got home I unloaded it and struggled to get it onto the centre stand again. I looked around and found the bottom of the suspension strut had broken and was the piece of metal I had picked up last night. Guess I better ring the bike shop up and ask them to order me a new shock as well! Total Mileage: 1555.