Solo Adventure from London to Cape Town via West Africa (www.rtwdream.com)

[Tommy]

Countdown
26 September, 2012
With my departure date in just over a week I thought I should post a brief update for all those following and eagerly awaiting my blogs. At the moment I’m still rushing around like crazy tyring to obtain those vital visas as well as trying to keep my job. Two in particular have caused lengthily processing times which in turn has restricted other visa applications. My Nigerian visa was rejected as I didn’t have a flight ticket. Well that’s a bit difficult when travelling overland. I’m petty sure if I re-applied then it would be accepted, however time is running out. My passport has only just been returned form the Angola embassy after nearly three weeks, though I’m very pleased with obtaining their visa as this can certainly be a tricky one to get even when on the road. Certain visa applications have been a good introduction in to how the West African authorities work and I look forward to future dealings. During these process’ I have already received many offers, from dinner in the Congo to Fishing in Namibia. Just to think these were created by chance meetings all be it in a KFC car park or by a pretty French river.

During the last few weeks I have met many good people who have and continue to help with shipping arrangements and visa applications. Thanks to all of you, in particular Bob, Espay, Mandy, Sharon and Amanda. You have all made the start of this adventure a reminder of how kind and helpful people can be. A big thank you also to my wife who has barely seen me over the last few weeks due to either work commitments or because my concentration has been focused on the planning.

All vaccines are of course up to date, shipping arrangements in place so long as I make it down in time, bikes all prepared and the majority of visas obtained. Unfortunately, I still await my Carnet de Passage which for some reason is very late. I have to comment that the RAC have probably been my worst communicator. There doesn’t seem to be anyway to contact them other than by email or a voicemail box. Either way, my messages do not get returned. Sorry RAC, not a good service. I will be opting for ADAC next time unless I hear of improvements.

My faith full of whom is all set to go with new tyres, full service, cleaned but not yet packed and posing a grin as big as mine. This bike and I have never really connected as much as my older GS which got wrote off on the M25 after a 6000 mile trip to Morocco. Lets hope this trip brings us closer.

I nervously await news that the Brittany staff will soon be returning to work, otherwise Calais here I come. Maybe an African deal could persuade them.

Til next time soon.

[Tommy]

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[Tommy]

Sorry lads, dont mean to make you jelous, but here goes:

13th October 2012 Boulzakarn – Layoone, Western Sahara

After a good ten hours sleep during last night’s sand storm, we woke this morning to prayers echoing around the old fort and now head further in to the Sahara desert along the dusty tarmac roads surrounded by the distant Anti Atlas Mountains.
Along the way we take a fuel stop and drink coffee with a hint of spices whilst we listen to further prayers. It obvious to see the transition now becoming prominently Arabic and much of our French is no longer understood, especially in a Welsh accent anyhow, with the greatest respect Dai.
We made steady progress along the N1 at low speeds so we could take in the magnificent bright yellow desert landscape with the deep blue Atlantic sea as the back drop, something I have never seen before. The N1 ran along the South West coast of Western Sahara and was surrounded by dunes either side with a sheer cliff face just a few meters away. There were ladders dangling down from the cliff face leading to the waves smashing in to the rocks below. The muscle pickers used these to climb down precariously so they can collect their catch at the end of the day. Dai being a fisherman found this fascinating and out I perspective his jolly jaunt around the harbour.
Approaching Tan Tan, Dai warned me of “Little and Large” who were two guardemerie well known for issuing fines to motorcyclist. We slowed right down so they didn’t have any excuse to stop us, but they did. They requested our Fiche which was the first time whilst in Morocco, and then waved us on our way.
In Tan Tan town the atmosphere changed dramatically and you could really feel the tension. The military presence was increasing the further south we rode. We stopped for coffee at a locals bar and not long after being there a fight broke out between a local drunk and the bar owner. There were soldiers watching the football in the bar but they didn’t react. As a crowd gathered we prepared for our escape but then all seemed to calm down so Dai went for his haircut at the Coiffeurs next door. It kicked off again and we thought this time we should leave.
Exiting the lawless Tan Tan we took it real easy as police road blocks are now every 2 – 3 miles. Unsurprisingly, we were stopped again. This time “Little and Large No. 2” asked for our passports and driving licences. We were concerned as our Moroccan insurance policy ran out yesterday and thought this could land us in jail for the night. We reluctantly handed our documents over. The Guarermerie then told us we didn’t stop at the stop sign, well we did but we have become so good at balancing our heavy bikes we didn’t feel the need to put two feet down on the floor. They Presented us with a 700 Dirham fine each! (the equivalent of 70 Euros each). I asjed to speak with their general and they replied saying it was he who told them to stop nus. Dai argued with them and I asked how much the fine will be if we didn’t ask for a receipt. Suddenly a second charge book was produced for 500 Dirhams each. Still not happy at the injustice I said we didn’t have that kind of money as we are camping and have a long way to go. A third charge book was then produced where the guardemerie explained if one of us took the blame for not wearing a helmet (which we were) then we would only have to pay 300 Dirhams between us and could be on our way. The fine was paid and on we went, very slowly, with iur helmets on and feet dragging along the floor.
Further down the road we were stopped five more times and suspect the authorities were radioing ahead to warn of our arrival. No more fines were issued though we did have to submit our Fiches at every check point. I feel this may be an example of things to come.
Still travelling the Desert road, two fighter jets thundered over head at unbelievable speeds similar to the oncoming trucks that are not speed limited and when they pass create a large crash of thunder and unbearable screech in my helmet. This is mainly due to the wind which was also causing us to lean the bikes at 45’ so not to be blown in to the dunes
In places the wind had swept the sand across the tarmac road creating mini dunes which had to be approached cautiously. The dunes then turned in to salt plains which made it too irristable not to go off road. With a 250 kg bike and over 100 kg of equipment this was soon to be regretted as the bike became buried in the deep powdery sand. Eventually I made it back onto the tarmac very out of breath and wonder how on earth I am going to cope with the Congolese roads ahead.
The next two petrol stations had run out of petrol, luckily the third hadn’t so I refuelled the bike and my spare container in case of further shortages down in the Western Sahara.
We arrived in Layounne, Western Sahara ahead of schedule and to Dai’s disagreement I located a three star hotel (The Sahara Line). The receptionist told us we could park the bikes in the secure car park at the, so we did and to our disbelief the car park was full of United Nation Vehicles and we’re wondering why their presence is necessary.
Tomorrow we continue the desert road further south and I predict another 1000 miles of sand covered tarmac to contend with until we reach Mauritania.

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For further blogs feel free to browse my web site lsited above.

[Tommy]

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[Tommy]

The best wild camp I can ever imagine, where the bright yellow sand dunes of the Sahara meet the deep blue sea of the Atlantic.

[Tommy]

I cried approaching this, cried riding through it and cried all day after I had completed it. The notorious Nigeria Border to Mamfe, Cameroon jungle road.

[Peejay]

Great stuff Tommy!

Keep it coming..

No shame in a few tears mate.

Stay strong and safe.

[picos mestizo]

Brilliant stuff Tommy.
Almost written in a kind of Ian Flemming Novel style.
Is Dai staying with you all the way.
If not coax him by telling him about all the beautifull 6 foot blonde, bronzed Dutch decent girls in the Jazz bars on the Cape Town beaches waiting for him.
Seems you're escaping all the Pirates with cheaper fines.
Keep safe.
It's freezing, dark & pissing down in Hemel today.
See you next year.
Brian.

[Tommy]

Hi Brian, thanks for following and for your much needed support.

Problem with persuading Dai to follow is that he already met that beautifull 6 foot blonde, bronzed Dutch in Mali, though she was far from blonde.

I think he may of fell in love, so I left him there in Mali, lol.

Im hoping he is on his way back home now and hasnt got married, lol, but hey good luck to him if he has.

P.S. you would love these tracks but way to difficult on my GSA.

Bfn, Tommy

[picos mestizo]

Well what do you Know Tommy.
I bought another Suzuki SP 370.
When I've finished it & if I want to sell one of them I'll give you first refusal.
Mindfull of you all the way mate.
Instructions for when the GPS packs up.
When you see a big hill with a flat top on it! STOP. Turn round & come home.
Brian.