Useful info or independent adventure (I’ll work it all out for myself) spoiler (feel free to stop reading at this point or else don’t complain) depending on your viewpoint.
3rd time and possibly last time to the wonderful Outer Hebrides (I’ve now finally scratched the Vatersay / Barra itch and there’s other places to visit in the Bucket).
CalMac Hopscotch #20
1) Oban Castlebay (Barra)
2) Barra Eriskay
3) Lochboisdale Uig
When you book Hopscotch you have to specify dates / times of Ferries which can take some planning depending upon how long you think you might need between Hops. Don’t worry if you want to change your plans on the move as quick call to CalMac or turn up at the terminal can often see you get on a different ferry at no extra cost (but not always though if they’re really busy).
On the Oban to Castlebay route if the weathers good you can see Ardnamurchan Point from a different viewpoint. Watch out for Whales too.
Top tip take your phone charger and don’t pack it in the bottom of your panniers. You can charge up on the boats. Boat wi-fi and phone signals are excellent and on the Isles variable (aka poor !) depending upon your provider.
They just held the Barrathon ½ marathon on … Barra and no coincidence since the main road is 13m circular trip. That gives some scale to the size of the riding. Taking a trip out to the Beach Airport to see the only scheduled Beach sandy take-off and landing runway in the world or the “Castle in the Bay” is worth it. Plus there’s decent phone signal at the Airport. Castlebay has a well stocked co-op and hardware store for common gas and there’s also a Pub. This is also where you’ll find the cheap Hostel if the weather is grim (best to book 1st – only 16 beds).
As you pull out of the ferry towards the main road (I use the term loosely) before the main road you can pitch on the grass over looking the Castle. Nobody minds despite being overlooked by the whole village. Watch out for the locals though … they’re friendly and might want to talk to you
As you cross the causeway to Vatersay You’ll come to the beach after a couple of miles. The whole road is only 4miles or so, it won’t take all day. Wild camping is possible on the beach to the left of the sandy beach road (google maps helps here) You may have to walk a few metres but there is one spot down the hill on the left just as the dunes start opposite the community hall (toilets available) between two grass covered dunes. If you “streetview” the area you can just make out a tent at the spot I mean.
Back to Barra you can get topped up with Water and toilets at the ferry terminal. There’s also 2x240V sockets. Plus Otters !
My favourite island in the whole Hebrides is Eriskay. If you’re desperate there’s a shower at the Ferry hut plus outside tap and toilets. I pull up on the left 200m up from the ferry hut and walk down the dedicated path to the beach to wild camp. White sand, blue sea, sunset, lovely. It’s a large beach but finding wood is like finding rocking horse pooh. Watch out for the locals though … they’re friendly and might want to talk to you . It’s about a 2km walk to the Pub.
[If you’re taking the Berneray / Lochboisdale ferry I won’t spoil the surprise. I hope you get fine weather and can see all the rocks above and below the water. I’ll say no more].
On the way back from Skye there was a decision to make… over the bridge left up the Wester Ross coastal trail and bag Applecross (again !) or take the ferry from Armadale over to Mallaig turn right after a bit and scratch the other itch of doing Ardnamurchan Point on the Bike. Ardnamurchan won. Just in case you don’t know it is the most westerly point on the mainland UK. Walk down past the lighthouse and you can uniquely privileged. Nobody on the mainland UK will be more westerly at that particular time than you.
I’m well used to mountain passes and C roads and I’ve been there before in the motorhome but the roads on the bike are hard work. I don’t know whether it’s the local who don’t care or tourists who don’t understand but either way the passing places appear to be advisory ! or just plainly to be ignored. This slows the journey down fearing life and limb.
Last Ferry (Corran) over to Fort William for a well earned rest at the Glen Nevis campsite. £13.20 for a bike tent but unlimited hot shower to get your moneys worth.
And that’s it for another year. More I’d have struggled to do in 5 days.
i) Vatersay, ii) Barra, iii) Eriskay, iv) South Uist, v) Benbecula, vi) North Uist, vii) Baleshare, viii) Berneray & ix) Skye + Ardnamurchan.
Where to next year – Shetlands or back to the Alps, watch this space
Chrz Mul.
Outer Hebrides and Ferries Tour
Re: Outer Hebrides and Ferries Tour
Just got back home from a west coast trip,took in Ardnamurcan,what a special place,sat on Sanna bay last tuesday night about 6pm the sun was belting down and there couldnt have been a better place in the world to be.I WILL be going back.Those roads are a sod though.
Re: Outer Hebrides and Ferries Tour
Stayed at the foot of Ben Nevis this July. Couldn't take our bikes as I'd just had a knee op, but by 'eck are we planning to go back and have a good motorcycle tour. Ardnurmurchan was lovely, as were some of the beaches just inland from Mallaig. Fantastic.
