Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Where you've been and what you done
fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

Have a read Elle.....
fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

Australia
Wednesday 24th October I
I am sitting in a caravan, rented for the night in Gundagai. It has a stretch of wooden railway track across a flood plain that is the longest timber truss bridge ever built in Australia. But not only is there this old wooden aquaduct and bridge built of wood for the railway there is also very near it and also across the same flood plain a wooden road aquaduct and bridge. They look amazing and you can picture the men at work on them. The stupid settlers of old settled on the flood plain originally and then ,of course, got flooded out with great loss of life in 1852 or so!! The camp/caravan/ cabin site is also beside the river...the Murrumbidgee River. Idyllic. I left Emma and Mike after a week with them in their new rented house to pay a visit to some friends dotted round Australia. Flew to Melbourne and stayed with Vanny and Ian whilst I bought a motorbike. Sounds easy and infact was not too difficult. We had contacted a private seller and so had things lined up. Mike wants a bike to do his test on so it had to be no bigger than a 250cc. Opted for a Honda. Took a bit of a gamble on the registration by getting it sorted before I saw the bike. The plan is that I use it now and then ride it all the way back to Perth....more later... However here I am after a day of riding 500 plus kilometres in the direction of Sydney. Seen pretty birds, ridden lovely empty curving roads, seen dead wombats, porcupines and kangaroos. Got pretty stiff in the knees but things will adjust!!! Bit cold most of the day but now....heaven....the first evening since leaving England ,about a month ago,that I feel warm. Hurrah.
Saturday 27th Oct
This country is expensive for us brits at the moment. I have fetched up in a not very clever fashion in a travel lodge tonight. Normal room about £ 120!! ( I got one with aircon not working for £60 ) This is too much. Wifi is not free, $11 per hour, only available in the bar, and in the room is that awful system of the card in the slot for electricity which stops things being charged when you leave the room. I sabotaged it, as I am sure others do, by putting a credit card in instead. It was not possible to turn lights out at night with a card in the slot ( not all lights had a switch) so I had to take a bulb out! Why do hotels do this?? ..I have a problem on my little bike in that if I put the rucksack on top of the bag and tie it to the bike then to access maps/ guide is a palaver. If the rucksack is on my back then access is easy but the journey is more arduous for me ( rucksack is heavy). So I cannot get the guides out easily and the result is a lack of knowing where I am/going! I had a good couple of nights in Sydney with friends. The day was spent getting another temporary permit for the bike. Had to get a pink slip. This proved quite hard but managed and back to the rta before they shut. The lady told me to take off the bike' s number plates. They are unregistered..however if a policeman sees no number plates I am sure to be stopped. Also this hotel has just asked for my registration number....! I am perfectly legal because I have the temporary permit. The lady in the rta even found me on her computer...we were put in the system when we entered Australia on our own bikes in 2002. We had to have temporary permits then for our foreign bikes. Whilst we think of Australia as one country, the states within have different rules and registration of vehicles is one. NSW is more flexible than Victoria. This time I have any number of days to do my journey and do not have to take the shortest route. Ten years ago we travelled at whatever speed we chose. Today Australia has very rigid speed limits and ferocious fines for exceeding them. The whole populous seems terrified of exceeding the limits and obey. Hidden cameras, hidden police cars and a slightly corrupt police force is all keeping cars in check. Endless roadside signs about death and speed. Most roads have very little traffic so hopefully police get bored and go away. My small bike can do all the maximum speeds...I would be feeling frustrated on a faster bike. Top speed on the freeways is 110kms or 70mph. Most roads its 60 mph. Ten years ago it was unrestricted in the Northern Territories now I understand its 80mph. So I got out of Sydney today , avoiding toll roads, avoiding police and took an inland route which involved a cable ferry and some dirt road. Lovely bends and good roads later. Giant lizard in the road which climbed a tree so that I could photograph it! About 3 foot long...it was called a Goanna. I am heading north and then west....destination Perth and back to Emma and Mike.
Tuesday 30th October
I headed to Inverell to visit a couple who had come to work for us on the farm for the plum season. Elvie and Jon. Elvie is a pyschiatric nurse and Jon was a Postie. Jon has now stopped work and Elvie does it part time. Their real hobby is archery and the whole family has been doing it for years. They also love travelling. They had said they lived up a rough track! My mobile did not work once I got near where they lived so no phoning for guidance. I found their road and knew it was quite long. It was dirt by then. I went all the way to the end and ended up in a farmyard. " No, said the farmer, THAT track, pointing at the merest tracks in the grass. Up I went , through a gate and on . The track was more definable but rougher so on and on and then in a clearing there was a house. It was pretty remote! They own 1300 acres of scrub. Excellent place for practicing their archery and killing a few animals with their arrows. It was a lovely spot. They have made a pretty garden with lots of fruit trees, water for which comes from a dam. Water for house from the rain via the roof, electricity from solar panels and bottle gas for cooking. They have a mains phone line put in free by the government but have to use satellite for computer. Great visit.

Photos will follow when i can!!!
Elle
Posts: 2654
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:17 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by Elle »

Have re-read (properly) your tale so far. Sounds a brilliant experience!

Your report on Mumbai made me smile because my daughter has recently spent a few nights there and hated it. They too had a rip-off hotel and said the food wasn't that great either. Compared to other areas of India, Mumbai sounds quite awful.

Australia - are you going the northern or southern route to Perth? Hope the bike has a big enough fuel tank! Perhaps you could get a small daysack that you wear back to front?

have a great journey :)
living an ordinary life in a non-ordinary way
fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

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Sleepy lizard
fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

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Giant gum tree
fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

Headed off down to Inverell to get petrol and then it rained on me. At least I have used my waterproofs that I have carried around for a month now. Long day to reach Lightning Ridge. Slight deviation from the route but Elvie insisted it would be interesting looking at an opal mining place. Put me in touch with a mental health work collegue who showed me round the mine workings. He himself had prospected with his father and was currently living in an old railway carriage up on the ridge. He was fairly eccentric I would think looking at the outside of his living quarters. He introduced me to Poverty Pete an old englishman from Bournemouth who had arrived years ago to mine opals. He had succeeded too. However his remaining days " on the ridge" will not be surrounded by beauty as it is one chaotic mess of heaps of gravel and mine shafts, bits of broken metal,vehicles and all sorts of abandoned paraphernalia associated with mining opals. You can see why they need a mental health centre here. Every "home" was homemade from bits and pieces and the place screamed " broken dreams" at you. Men chasing riches  and failing. A tough and rough spot on the ridge. The town was fine and no problem.

  Wednesday 31st Oct

Suddenly it is hot. I wake to a cloudless sky and it is warm, no , hot! Yesterday I had 3 layers , today just a t shirt ( plus jacket). Now moaning that it is too hot as it zooms over 30 degrees. The air is so dry and the countryside looks so parched. Dead trees, dry golden grass. Harvest for grain has begun and the huge road trains( with only one trailor not three) tip the grain at a depot in huge heaps in the open air. No worry about rain for now. I think onward journey might be rail for the grain. Little traffic on the road, just me, a few caravans and some trucks. A motorbike did come the other way.... Highlights were emu and a dead stripey huge lizard thing....Goanna? Reached Bourke nice and early, settled for an authentic australian hotel in town and walked along the Darling river levy in searing heat! There was some shade from the lovely trees and lots of birds to look at. Otherwise Bourke is yet another australian town , built on a grid pattern and well spread out with huge wide roads. The poor Darling river is way below its level of 100 years ago because too much water is being abstracted from it. It is a nasty green colour and is in bad shape. They have taken up cotton growing here as well. .....why can't we learn not to do the rivers in. The route is on the edge of the outback. The outback is more colourful....here it is more open because it is farmed.   Thursday 1st Nov Slightly cloudy and not as hot as I leave town. Cobar, 150kms along looks quite modern and I feel encouraged to keep going to Wilcannia on the Barrier highway thinking it will be similar...I was wrong. But before I got there I stopped at a roadhouse where there was a motorcyclist heading the opposite way. He looked like a hells angel type but was very nice and helpful. Roadhouses are friendly places anyway. He told me to watch out for Emus..." look like bushes of they have their heads down" but are stupid and panic. A friend of his got an Emu head stuck in his gear lever and then was high sided off as the bike went over the body. So far today I had called it "goat " day for all I had seen were wild goats. Told me where to stay once I reached Broken Hill but more importantly told me where to stay in Wilcannia. Broken hill was another 200kms on from Wilcannia and I did not think I would reach there easily. I have stopped in his recommendation in Wilcannia. Its a motel and fine. The rest of the town is very basic and hardly any of it. Its beside the Darling river but it has seen better times. The motel is behind the petrol station/roadhouse and I don't think I would have seen it.

  Friday 2nd Nov

Had to be out of the motel by 9am so off to Broken hill. Gained a half hour in time zone change between NSWand S.Australia and reached town by late morning. Countryside had been very desert like with scrubby bushes and more goats but some Emu. Headed for a backpacker place recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. Even though still am they said no problem about taking a room then for the night. Good and friendly with small pool, free wifi etc for a good price. Broken Hill is famous for silver mining and is where that large mining co BHP Billiton began. Huge hill overlooks the town. Did a bit of museum stuff, saw the "Boundary Rider" solid silver tree. It is a table centre piece weighing about 8 kilos of pure silver made by a jeweller, ..and then relaxed. Had missed the tour down a mine which was a shame but they only did them in the morning. Chatting later one of the australians said had I heard that rumble?  Every evening about that time they do an explosion in the mine right under the hotel!!! They now mine stuff called Galena which has silver and other minerals in it. Cooked a meal of fantastic steak in the backpacker kitchen.  

Saturday 3rd November  

Obviously Emu day! See plenty of them including dead ones which I had not seen before. Had not topped up with petrol as I left town because had only done about 50 miles and the map looked as though it had places that I would be going through. This became a bit of a worry after 200 kms and no petrol stations. Little bike is economic but only has 12 litre tank. I stop in the next tiny gathering of houses. Has cafe but no petrol..however lady says only 44km more. Have cup of tea with her. She soon tells me that she has fallen out with two of the 7 other inhabitants here. She has been running her cafe/truck stop here for 11 years but now her trade was being ruined by these two incomers who were taking her business. Presumably the other 5 inhabitants have taken sides!!! I think to attract more truckers she needed to do something about her sloppy appearance....that might have done the trick. The decor of the cafe was tastefully decorated with old hessian sacks....interesting!! Thought I would stop by the road but now being attacked by flies. Head on...looks very desert like but told later this is normal, not a desert and it would rain on Monday.! Have made contact with Linda who happens to be with friends of hers in Quorn near Port Augusta just 40 kms off my route. Linda, not at all a tall or big female , rode a 400cc motorbike from England to Australia, all alone, aged 59. It took her nigh on 2 years. She had an australian pension to collect when she arrived.!! Its got hot again and am getting short of petrol again as I arrive in Quorn. Linda's friends have an amazing own built ( he is a carpenter) house with a wonderful view. Very laid back open plan home. Took 6 years to build with their own hands.  

Sunday 4th Nov

We had arranged....because Linda wakes early(!!)to go up some gorge to see Yellow footed Rock Wallabies at dawn. So because Linda was making plenty of noise I woke and was ready by 6.30am. It was already pretty warm as we got into Linda's old car. Her bike for some reason had been in the USA and now needed reregistering and was in Adelaide. Linda's car was pretty old...but we arrived at the gorge duly saw and photographed the Wallabies and also plodded 5 kms in the increasingly hot sun. Back to the house where the owners had sensibly had a lie in. Plan is to ride to Port Lincoln where Linda's house is and stay there one night. It is a bit of a detour but means I will have a more interesting ride tomorrow along the coast. I leave in searing heat and it seems to get hotter and hotter. It is so hot that I cannot think about anything except how uncomfortable I am. My feet are boiling in my boots, my bum is uncomfortable on the seat and the air has the feel of a sauna blasting across my face. I am in a sauna fully dressed!! I believe it hit 40c. Eventually it cools as I get nearer to Port Lincoln. Linda never made it in her car.! It broke down after about 50kms. Luckily there was both a hidden key to her house and a lodger. So lodger and I had a good meal together feasting on the fish he had just caught out to sea that afternoon. Linda stayed with yet another friend in Whyalla.....near her car!!  

Monday 5th Nov

Very windy and very overcast but as I step outside I realise its pretty warm still....like a bath this time and not a sauna. Not exactly as cold as it looked from inside. Unfortunately the wind is galeforce and pretty head on. The warmth makes it nicer. However after a while it becomes less and a sea fret comes over the land and it gets quite cold. Then it gets sunnier and warmer and then it threatens rain on both sides. There is a fire on the right quite far away. All the changes keep me entertained as well as the vast fields of grain on either side being combined. Very strange scenery coast side as fields of grain abutted sand dunes of white sand. On the road I was having fun with a tailess looking lizard called a "Sleepy Lizard" I thought the first one I saw had lost its tail but then I saw more and more. They are about 12 inches long and look like a slow moving twig crossing the road. They freeze when traffic comes ( not a good idea) and move pretty slowly. Tried to get a photo of it with its tongue out but I was never quick enough. There were lots of them. Reached Ceduna as planned. Apparently been lucky not to get wet. Lightning has played havoc with electricity...many black outs and the wind had set off more than the one fire that I saw.
fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

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fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

Guess who these two are? All kitted up for the Nullarbor highway.
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Elle
Posts: 2654
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:17 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by Elle »

Glad to read you're well and still going strong Nina
Recognise the couple but can't place a name.....
living an ordinary life in a non-ordinary way
fairyplum
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 pm

Re: Two weeks around theHimalayas, followed by 2/3 weeks riding across Australia alone on a Honda 250cc

Post by fairyplum »

Elle wrote:Glad to read you're well and still going strong Nina
Recognise the couple but can't place a name.....[/quote
They are 2ridettheworld pair .
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