For both you now have non standard set ups, exhaust, lambda, egr blanking and even oil coolers all unknown territory so no easy solution, sorry sucking egg's
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Using the mods we have outlined in this thread to help prevent engine stalling and cutting out are what we could consider as baseline checks, that being fuel cap breather, TPS setting, tappets set correctly, no air leaks in any hoses, IXG24 spark plug and even some 97 Ron fuel, i went back to this when mine starting to run badly and found i must have knocked the TPS out, reset it and all perfect..........but check all as a matter or course
Ed i think the chances of an air lock in your new oil coolers is unlikely, I believe the flexi hose at the top of the oil frame that goes to the cylinder head is a breather, ultimately venting via the crankcase breather allowing oil to expand and contract naturally.........as the oil can eventually drop to the sump of its own accord them the oil circuit is open and free to move, do like the oil cooler set up though
Ned the cutting out at speed needs to be process of elimination and seen as mechanical or electrical. If all the baseline checks are done as mentioned above it could be electrical..........however before we go there if the tank breather is not working as it should, based on your bike cutting out at speed the demand for fuel at this point is high and the fuel pump needs to work hard so any small vacuum may reduce the pump pressure enough to cause fuel starvation especially if the fuel is low as well , again exaggerated due to demand vs speed, When you turn the bike off the vacuum is released as the pump re primes and off you go............
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![Question :?:](./images/smilies/icon_question.gif)
In terms of the fuel cap there is an extra hole to be drilled in the plate that hides the cap and bearing, really helps if this is done