Transalp 650 clutch slip(?) at high revs

[thebiggestjolly]

Run it in third or 4th, point it at an incline, and give it some beans--if the clutch is going to slip it will then.

I think it was mostly in 2nd / 3rd, so good shout. I assume it is unlikely to happen if I stick it on its centre stand and rev it hard, seeing as there's no resistance?

[mancunian]

I recently purchased a transalp 650 and decided the clutch was slipping, initially I just bought new friction plates but after experiencing how much work is involved in getting at the clutch I also changed the steels and springs you also need sealant for the clutch cover as it has no gasket and have to drop the oil so may as well change that, I am a quite handy "home mechanic" and this was no simple task believe me, without the haynes manual I would have been in trouble!
It took me a good few evenings to finish the job which i can do on my Ktm 640 in half an hour start to finish, so my advice is buy a manual and then replace everything while it's apart

[catcitrus]

Ref your question-- on the centre stand!!!--NO--change the oil for the recommended spec and grade, run it for a few miles to make sure that its got to the clutch--and then LOAD it as I suggested--WITH free play at the lever--AND the clutch actuation lever end just to be sure. I always apply light pressure to the handlebar lever and WATCH the clutch lever--there should be perceptible movement before you apply real load--its just overcoming the light return spring pressure--and its making sure that the cable is free enough and that the thrust bearing is NOT applying any pressure to the plates and holding them off a bit.

[hotbulb]

I'd try an oil change first, too. (10W/40 semi-synth motorcycle oil .... or at least approved for wet clutches!) And clutch slip is usually more apparent in high (4th, 5th) gears rather than low.

[Uncle Buck]

You are going on a hard ride, hills etc.

I would bite bullet and do the clutch friction plates and probably springs because of lack of history if it was my bike and feel thankful it came up a few weeks before and not on the way.

Those are really classic signs of clutch on way out unless it was a case of cable with no free play or an oil issue. Oils can do this too but if it was motorcycle oil then it shouldn't.

Or if your timescale while travelling permits, buy the parts and bring them with you and that way you are well covered for any problem. I tend to have leisurely holidays rather than hectic travel and miles every day and an early evening stop would do a clutch on most straightforward bikes. If its not a job you can easily do yourself most certainly in France you will get some bike help without much asking.

Not something I'd be confident doing yet, especially not on the road. Wll try some adjustments and oil change then try again! I'm likely to do it tho, just for my peace of mind. Cheers

Clutches are easy. They sound scary but take about an hour. Lay the bike on its side and it's even easier and you don't have to drain all the oil

[threepot]

I've been running my tiger on Castrol Power 10.40 full synth for over a year now. I've managed to buy it for only £3 ltr from Tesco! It's good oil. Power is nice,and gear change. But on occasion,I have noticed a bit of clutch slip changing up to 6th,but only when I'm really 'gunning' it. I have gone 'up' a tooth on the front,and my bike has 75k miles,so it could be that,or the oil? You mention 'slip' in the lower gears? That leads me to think it could be clutch wear? If you've time,try the 'semi' oil,see how that effects it? I've gone back to it..Rock Oil. So far good. Similar performance,and a nice gear change.

[Spout]

And clutch slip is usually more apparent in high (4th, 5th) gears rather than low.

What HB says.

Check you're not accidently pulling on the lever whilst accelerating ??

[thebiggestjolly]

And clutch slip is usually more apparent in high (4th, 5th) gears rather than low.

What HB says.

Check you're not accidently pulling on the lever whilst accelerating ??

I considered this, if there's not enough freeplay and I'm just resting my hand to much during these moments. I doubt it, but I'll keep an eye out. Cheers!

[92kk k100lt 193214]

The only issue you have is the short timescale before you go on the strip.
I have always subscribed to the view never do anything major or make any changes in the month before travel simply to allow rectification time if something goes wrong. But in fairness you went for approving trip and its highlighted the problem.
From a distance I can't say if it's the oil or the clutch adjustment and it's eating into the time you have available if it does come down to a clutch change. And that's assuming parts are on the shelf. If it is the oil an oil change and two weeks riding might sort it but if it doesn't you are up against the wire.
I still think if it was mine I would pull the clutch but do it soon.
Out of interest on my K I had to do a job on a rear main seal earlier this year and decided to do the clutch too. Old plate had about 5k miles tops left on it and was original from 1984. Its got a long trip in September but since doing the clutch etc it's got 6k miles put up on it.
Clutches are generally diy jobs on most bikes maybe someone might give you a hand with it. Its always good to know about your bike and if not used to these things its a great way to learn them.

[mancunian]

I recently purchased a transalp 650 and decided the clutch was slipping, initially I just bought new friction plates but after experiencing how much work is involved in getting at the clutch I also changed the steels and springs you also need sealant for the clutch cover as it has no gasket and have to drop the oil so may as well change that, I am a quite handy "home mechanic" and this was no simple task believe me, without the haynes manual I would have been in trouble!

It took me a good few evenings to finish the job which i can do on my Ktm 640 in half an hour start to finish, so my advice is buy a manual and then replace everything while it's apart

Forgot to mention you also need a new clutch tab washer