Tyres and Tyre pressures

[flipflopdog]

As a user of nothing more than TKC80's over the years I've just had my 'offroad' eyes enlightened with a set of Mitas (Co2 rear/C19 front) whilst out on a monster day out in Cumbria. With one rim lock in the rear and nothing in the front i ran them at (20/18psi R/F) not because i know what I'm doing but more so that is what the tyre guy left in and i thought a little low but see how they go. Front end never let go once and the rear performed equally.

Any comments appreciated on tyre pressures and associated ground conditions etc etc..

My belief is off-roading is ALL about tyres ( and suspension..) and tyre choice..

[bowber]

That's what I run too, yes you might get more grip but it's offset by punctures and bent rims. Handles better on the road too.

Steve

[Stewie]

C02's are a bit of a marmite tyre, I love them, a solid tyre with a hard compound, I run mine at 9psi, their Achilles heel is wet grass, but will last for galactic miles, not IMHO suited to bigger Adv type bike, the biggest bike I've used them on is a 650cc.
Just have a play around with your tyre pressure, and see what's good for you, 1bar or 14psi is a good starting point.
The Mitas fronts are great, but it's all personal preference, the Maxxis ITs are a good choice for trail n road.

[Mike Wright]

C02's are a bit of a marmite tyre, I love them, a solid tyre with a hard compound, I run mine at 9psi, their Achilles heel is wet grass, but will last for galactic miles, not IMHO suited to bigger Adv type bike, the biggest bike I've used them on is a 650cc.
Just have a play around with your tyre pressure, and see what's good for you, 1bar or 14psi is a good starting point.
The Mitas fronts are great, but it's all personal preference, the Maxxis ITs are a good choice for trail n road.

Exactly my thoughts having used a fair few if these tyres .

[Tramp]

Think of it this way ...your suspension soaks up the bumps and more importantly keeps the tyre in contact with the ground so leading to grip...

Tyre pressure on trails enables the tyre to grip if it cant flex it cant grip or clear mud its useless, some rely on horsepower...think donkey or a hare up a slippy slope..

I use maxxis it on ccm644 150kg at 16 front 18 rear....down to 14/16 in real tuff stuff...i still fall off though ....they are easier yo fit than co2

[Barftone]

Soo subjective! DRZ with Maxxis enduro (great tyre) for green laning 14psi front and back as an allround road and trail. 10-12 front if really wet snotty. I used to run around 10 but puncture risk is greater the lower you go. TKCs on the Africa I normally run at 26F 28R normal road riding and drop to 20 for dirty stuff mix.

[flipflopdog]

Thanks for some good input there gents. With a little more air out i wasn't far off the mark, next time out should be a little dryer....haha...!!!

[DavidS]

CO2s must be more suited to northern climes.
I stupidly tried one on the rear down here in sloppy Sussex and gave it away after one ride.
Marmite indeed - an awful lump of concrete on and off road but they seem to work on less muddy ground.

AC10 on the front is a recipe for disaster anywhere but I’ve managed to avoid them.
A riding mate who never falls off used to bin it every few minutes with them fitted.

All knobblies are weird on the road but you get used to them. I go around 15psi front and rear and leave them like that.
Do people really adjust the pressures every time they swap from lane to road?

I’ve put Mitas E07 dual sport tyres on the 690 but wouldn’t go more than gravel roads on them.

[Richard Simpson Mark II]

I've said it before, I'll say it again.

Any trail/adventure/enduro bike is pretty much defined by its tyres.

And running at the correct (low) pressure makes a huge difference on soft going.

Security bolts are vital, as is winding the valve-stem nut to the top of the stem to lock under the valve cap.

If you fit security bolts, then get the wheel rebalanced...makes a huge difference to rider comfort and handling on the road, plus reduces tyre wear and increases bearing life.

[daveuprite]

as is winding the valve-stem nut to the top of the stem to lock under the valve cap.

Well that's something I don't do at the moment, Richard. Thanks for the tip. So you have your valve stem nut almost totally undone right up to the dust cap?