Hi all recently bought a 990 adv running tubes I want to add a set of tyre levers and some spare tubes etc to my tool kit any advice on makes to go for and avoid and maybe what else I'll need in the kit
Cheers in advance
Tyre levers and tubes
- Teflon Jnr
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Re: Tyre levers and tubes
Motionpro levers are good and also incorporate ring spanners for the wheel nut.
However, note that the rear tyre change is a pig of a job: my tyre fitter struggled even with a proper workshop tyre rig and bead-breaker. The rim incorporates a safety rib which holds the tyre in place even when fully deflated. Combine this with with the stiffness of a tyre suitable for the 950 (the Mefo Explorer feels like it's made from concrete) and you have a fight on your hands. I've tried driving a car over the tyre and still not shifted it.
In the field/at the roadside you can improvise a beadbreaker by deploying the side-stand and using the weight of the motorcycle to punch down on the tyre. But only try this if you have a side-stand relocator already fitted (and if you haven't got one of those, get one now, because even an innocuous-looking left-side fall with the standard set-up has the potential to smash the engine and write the bike off).
In the event of a roadside puncture, I'd whack in a can of Holts sealant and ride carefully home/to the nearest bike tyre shop. I'd be amazed if the tyre came off the rim.
However, note that the rear tyre change is a pig of a job: my tyre fitter struggled even with a proper workshop tyre rig and bead-breaker. The rim incorporates a safety rib which holds the tyre in place even when fully deflated. Combine this with with the stiffness of a tyre suitable for the 950 (the Mefo Explorer feels like it's made from concrete) and you have a fight on your hands. I've tried driving a car over the tyre and still not shifted it.
In the field/at the roadside you can improvise a beadbreaker by deploying the side-stand and using the weight of the motorcycle to punch down on the tyre. But only try this if you have a side-stand relocator already fitted (and if you haven't got one of those, get one now, because even an innocuous-looking left-side fall with the standard set-up has the potential to smash the engine and write the bike off).
In the event of a roadside puncture, I'd whack in a can of Holts sealant and ride carefully home/to the nearest bike tyre shop. I'd be amazed if the tyre came off the rim.
Re: Tyre levers and tubes
+1 for the Motion Pro levers with the ring spanner end. They're pricey but I think they're worth it.
The MotionPro BeadPro helped us break the bead on one side of a 950 rear on a recent jaunt to Italy but we had to resort to the centerstand of another bike to get the other side off.
The MotionPro BeadPro helped us break the bead on one side of a 950 rear on a recent jaunt to Italy but we had to resort to the centerstand of another bike to get the other side off.
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Re: Tyre levers and tubes
Yes plus 1 more for motion pro kit , just as a little trick that I have used for years getting all types of difficult tyres of the rim , from tractor tyres to farm trailers or motorbikes , not sure exactly why it works but if you have room to carry a tin of easy start which you probably have in those panniers , press the tyre away from rim and spray the bead with easy start , you need to be quick and get the bead broken before the easy start dries , it works every time , I will probably get slated by someone , but it works for me !!!
Re: Tyre levers and tubes
I carry 3 Buzzetti type tyre levers,
1 valve puller
1 rocky creek compressor
1 spare 21in tube (can be used in your rear tyre)
1 small can WD40. Too lube up the tyre when taking off and putting on tyre ( some say it corrodes the aluminium but i say it makes life easier and i go through enough mud and puddles to wash it off annyway.
2 small 1/2 x 1 inch blocks of wood. ( help break the bead add leverage also help keep the tyre in the well when trying to re-seat tyre there is a knack and it does work)
1 plastic bag to keep all your tools and spindle on saves em getting dirty or for a wander round the country side.
I bag of wet wipes mop sweaty brow or just wipe grease and shit off.
couple pairs of vinyl gloves.
The KTM fronts are quite easy to change out most of us use the Pirelli MT 21 front you can do it with two tyre irons. use other one with one of the blocks of wood under the bashplate to keep the front wheel up if you haven't got a fat friend to sit on bike or cant find anything else suitable
With the rear just ride on a little bit and the bead will break save you the hassle. Again a lot of us use the Mitas EO9 rear just the standard not the Dakar as that really is a bitch to fit.
1 valve puller
1 rocky creek compressor
1 spare 21in tube (can be used in your rear tyre)
1 small can WD40. Too lube up the tyre when taking off and putting on tyre ( some say it corrodes the aluminium but i say it makes life easier and i go through enough mud and puddles to wash it off annyway.
2 small 1/2 x 1 inch blocks of wood. ( help break the bead add leverage also help keep the tyre in the well when trying to re-seat tyre there is a knack and it does work)
1 plastic bag to keep all your tools and spindle on saves em getting dirty or for a wander round the country side.
I bag of wet wipes mop sweaty brow or just wipe grease and shit off.
couple pairs of vinyl gloves.
The KTM fronts are quite easy to change out most of us use the Pirelli MT 21 front you can do it with two tyre irons. use other one with one of the blocks of wood under the bashplate to keep the front wheel up if you haven't got a fat friend to sit on bike or cant find anything else suitable
With the rear just ride on a little bit and the bead will break save you the hassle. Again a lot of us use the Mitas EO9 rear just the standard not the Dakar as that really is a bitch to fit.