CRF250 L thread

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catcitrus
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by catcitrus »

As a ginger beer I have to say that you are correct--the "growing" effect is due to insufficient centripetal force obtained WITHOUT the tyre changing profile--newton and all that--" a body will continue in a straight line or remain at rest unless acted on by an external force.
"Centripetal force is defined as, “The component of force acting on a body in curvilinear motion that is directed toward the center of curvature or axis of rotation,” while centrifugal force is defined as, “The apparent force, equal and opposite to the centripetal force, drawing a rotating body away from the center of .."

Isn't physics fun!! :lol:
garyboy
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by garyboy »

I waz really perplexed, in 1967, when our advanced maths teacher, after years of stupid calculations, casually informed our class that `they are now saying .. there is no such thing as centrifugal force` ????? ..`just centripetal force`. .. I didnt undrstand it then, but thanks to cat's ginger beer?? i now `get it` :) .... now that IS fun!!

.. so !!! (isnt that word annoying) ........
a tyre rotates around the axle,
the spokes provide the centripetal force (inwards) through their tensile strength,
these combine to try tp pull the metal rim inwards,
the rim (mostly) resists this through its strength and rigidity, and spoke connections,
the tyre, being flexible, has less rigidity, and the forces acting upon it (as with the rim)
are the centripetal forces and the rotational forces acting always at the tangents normal to the axle,
(not counting the forces from the road or heat or brakes etc).

But, for every force there is an equal and opposite force, if a thing is to remain `stable`.
The rim remains relatively stable (in shape) because the `centrifugal` forces are accommodated ok,
but the tyre, being flexible, will succumb somewhat to the `centrifugal` forces
outwards in a direction opposite to the centripetal forces
until an equilibrium is reached within the tyre structure which provides an internal resistance to deformation,
but not before the tyre has deformed outwards enough to provide that resistance.

The main forces acting on the tyre are centripital and rotational ...
but it is the inertia of the tyre that is providing the apparent `centrifugal` forces,
as it resists its mass being moved constantly inwards.
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HedgeHopper
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by HedgeHopper »

Thick cable ties...wrap em round tyre and rim...just be sure to thread em between the knobs and give em a good tug :lol:
halfpint
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by halfpint »

the wheels on the bus go round and round, but stop licking the windows . buy a13 tooth front sprocket and have no more problems.
garyboy
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by garyboy »

I was just this minute looking at a post that had the 13t front with the 42t rear sprocket
.. gives the same as my 14/45t setup
and must admit that it would have been a lot lot easier

.. but then .. I got a 90% profile tyre on, which feels fab ..
a new chain .. and probably less strain on it at the 14t front area
as there is less bend on the chain, having a larger dia sprocket?

.. so there !!! … 8-) :lol:
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by halfpint »

dont worry about the chain, its making the motor struggle more off road . hence you slip the clutch more ,the tyre is already over gearing the bike .
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by halfpint »

dont worry about the chain, its making the motor struggle more off road . hence you slip the clutch more ,the tyre is already over gearing the bike .
garyboy
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by garyboy »

good point about the larger tyre giving a higher gearing!


.. but I was slipping the clutch on 14/42t gearing, and not tried this new setup and tyre yet over a long period,

.. must admit, I was surprised to see the rear air valve pointing out of line, showing a slip in the tyre / tube interface!! .. .. so either the pressure was too low at the rear, or, as you say, more strain on the rear end??

I have upped the pressures all round now
as had a compression (very slow) puncture on the front .. and a slipped valve case on the rear
catcitrus
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by catcitrus »

ginger beer=engineer !
Fit a security bolt/clamp to avoid the valve ripping out--or if you have one its not working!. NEVER tighten the locknut on the valve--that way you can see whats happening as you have noticed. You can always quickly work out the gearing--just divide the gearbox sprocket number into the rear sprocket number--and compare against stock. A quick tape measure from the axle centre line to the outer surface of the tyre will give you a radius comparison when you fit a knobbly with deeper profile--and the percentage difference can be applied to your gearing calc which will, in your case, offset the reduction in gearing from the fitment of a larger gearbox, and even larger still rear sprocket.
ps I run about 10 psi in the rear and 8 psi in the front for trail riding
garyboy
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Re: CRF250 L thread

Post by garyboy »

catcitrus wrote: Wed Nov 28, 2018 5:42 pm ginger beer=engineer !
Fit a security bolt/clamp to avoid the valve ripping out--or if you have one its not working!. NEVER tighten the locknut on the valve--that way you can see whats happening as you have noticed. You can always quickly work out the gearing--just divide the gearbox sprocket number into the rear sprocket number--and compare against stock. A quick tape measure from the axle centre line to the outer surface of the tyre will give you a radius comparison when you fit a knobbly with deeper profile--and the percentage difference can be applied to your gearing calc which will, in your case, offset the reduction in gearing from the fitment of a larger gearbox, and even larger still rear sprocket.
ps I run about 10 psi in the rear and 8 psi in the front for trail riding


I am glad that it means `engineer` 8-)
.. not that I thought otherwise, of course :? :lol:
or that it made any difference, of course 8-)

was contemplating a rim lock .. as I have a new one here ((at 2.15 …
``checks pics of rim`` … yes!! .. its an 18 x 2,15 rim ))
but the oem does not have one, and I did not really want all the potch of fitting/repairing and balancing!!!
especially the balancing !!

interesting stuff about gear comparisons … will have to try that ..

14/40 - 14/45 = 0.35 - 0.31 = 0.04 or 4% difference lower gearing

and, say 1" bigger radius when new, = 1over 18"+4"= 1/22 = 0.045 = 4.5% higher in gearing


er … actually ?
not much benefit from the larger rear sprocket ???


edit .. the old EO9 was more like 3" depth .. so its more like 1/18plus 3 = 1/21 = 0.047 omg even worse, but not so bad? as it actually FEELS a lot better (lower)

edit edit ..
should be 45/14 - 40/14 = 3.21 - 2.86 = 0.35 = in% .. 0.35/2.86 x100 = 12.24% lower gear ratio than oem, for 45t

whereas 42/14 - 40/14 = 3.00 - 2.86= 0.14 = in% .. 0.14/2.86 x 100 = 4.90% lower gearing than oem. for 42t
and the 45t is 12.24 - 4.90= 7.34% lower than the 42t sprocket setup.

the old tyre was say 18"+3"+3" dia = about 12" rad
the new tyre say 18"+4"+4" dia = about 13" rad
so % increase = 1"/12" x 100 = 8.33% extra to drive (higher gearing)

so overal gain in lowering rear gear to 45t from 40t, with the new tyre fitted = 12.24 - 8.33 = 3.94%
and for the 42t with old tyre = 4.90% ??

??
Last edited by garyboy on Thu Nov 29, 2018 10:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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