CRF250 L thread

[I am spadger]

Thanks for the reply , I’ll try them , I don’t have skype but will try an email


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[minkyhead]

thought it were on there somewhere

https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1/Honda/CRF250L/2013



Fork Comments
Measure oil volume - not level. Stock the left leg is damping only, right leg is spring only. The stock spring is way too soft. RT spring kit adds spring to the left leg and retains the stock spring in the right leg. This increases the total spring rate. RT spring calculator calculates only the new spring you are adding to damping leg. RT Fork Spring Kit includes an adapter kit to add a spring to the Damper leg. Total spring rate is a combination of both springs. The stock single spring is .72kg and does not get changed. When the RT Spring is added to the Damping leg use 500cc oil volume in that leg, 600cc in the Spring Only (right) leg. No need to disassemble the right leg unless its due for a rebuild or you want to put in good oil. Custom Spring required for stiffer rates.

[scutty]

450R front end is the future - love mine

2018-11-27 20.32.45.jpg (126.25 KiB) Viewed 2998 times

The end result with a Rally rear linkage and YSS shock) gives a lot more ground clearance (Clarance)

[I am spadger]

thought it were on there somewhere

https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1/Honda/CRF250L/2013



Fork Comments
Measure oil volume - not level. Stock the left leg is damping only, right leg is spring only. The stock spring is way too soft. RT spring kit adds spring to the left leg and retains the stock spring in the right leg. This increases the total spring rate. RT spring calculator calculates only the new spring you are adding to damping leg. RT Fork Spring Kit includes an adapter kit to add a spring to the Damper leg. Total spring rate is a combination of both springs. The stock single spring is .72kg and does not get changed. When the RT Spring is added to the Damping leg use 500cc oil volume in that leg, 600cc in the Spring Only (right) leg. No need to disassemble the right leg unless its due for a rebuild or you want to put in good oil. Custom Spring required for stiffer rates.

That’s great thanks a lot , new bushes and seals ordered and I can get on with it , speighty


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[minkyhead]

450R front end is the future - love mine

2018-11-27 20.32.45.jpg

The end result with a Rally rear linkage and YSS shock) gives a lot more ground clearance (Clarance)

it were your post on adv rider that sowed the seed ... and then 250 quid was a steal

the wheel is ok ...the brake caliper and disk were shot at ,, i was mis sold a 320ml set up but think i can get the hangar ..in the meantime i refurbished the caliper abd got a standard disk for 32 quid ..braided venhill lines ,,,it stops pretty dam well im thinking a 320 is gonna be nuts ..so i may sell it on ..may stick with the o/e or go 270 ..later depnding how it goes

managed a shakedown run with shit front brake before the bits came .. and used me local testing spot ....i cjhse to go 320ml soft on the oil level in the fork and am pretty dam pleased with how it rides proper plush
..but you can push on and it just soaks it up nice ...a bit of a novelty having rebound on the crf that works proper


..the forks wernt hard to do but it were a bit of a nessabout with fairing /ignition braking lines .. ..i may do the rally
s its pretty easy with the fairing not involved with the forks

cost 250
brake caliper parts 35 disk 32 braided line 47 full sevice kit for forks interiroor and extiroir chamber buishings seals and o rings 78 quid bearings 32 mudguard 22

forks are in good nic probably worth more than the 250 on their own

so all in 496.... should be able to sell the crf front for summet over or around 200 quid in full or in bits ....for a few bob so id be thinking less than 300 to do ...

cheeers
CCC by minkyhead56, on Flickr

[scutty]

Can you post a photo of your steering stops?

[minkyhead]

Can you post a photo of your steering stops?

very basic

replaced the o/e with similer but directedted to the corner of the steering stem ...the rubber buffer is epoxyed on the cable tie is to let the glue cure i used a slice of ice hockey puck ..that stuff is super tough especially under compression and shoulod create a good buffer between the two metal surfaces

i didnt want to go near the proper stops as i think the welder would pull at the race seatings and maby distort them ...i have in the past cut steering stops for more lock but the throttle cable is the one thing that made me weld em in ...
ive dropped the forks a inch to keep the bike summet like level ..that and the extra sag make it pretty ok ...ground clearance is a respectable 12 inchs ...and the weight of the alloy headstock is a good saving too ... liking it so far


busted .....exposing my crap welding to the world

seems to be ok shakedown run tioday ...lake district at the weekend ..see how it goes on them rocky bits


IMG_20191120_145559 by minkyhead56, on Flickr
IMG_20191120_145737 by minkyhead56, on Flickr

[garyboy]

perhaps this is the bike that Honda should have built?
It was the poor suspension and heavy engine and overall weight that put me off
The heavy weight could be forgiven for minky's greater power .. but the oe suspension reminded me of my old DR350

[Steve T]

Been following this thread from the start, along with any threads about the Rally version, but I've still to take a test ride on one (it has to be the L version cos a 29" inside leg rules the Rally version out).

Local dealer has a low mileage 16' plated bike in stock that has some tasty extra's on it. Only problem is they'll not let me take it out cos the roads here are covered with salt and grit and have been for weeks now .
I also have a bit of a mental blockage regarding this sort of small traillie - up here beyond the wall, there are no legal off road tracks or trails (I know, it doesn't seem to stop me going "off-piste" on the bikes I do have) On a littler machine I think . . . . no, I know I'd be tempted to wander further, into sillier places

I'll pop up my thoughts on the wee beasty once I've done some miles on one (road only, so won't really count )

Steve T

[minkyhead]

not sure its quiye a gs steve .. road wise its a shame you cant make the rally fit ..they ride nice

there is a significant difference between the 16 and newer updated 17 motors and although neither are going to blow you away the 17 motor is much better pariculary in 6th gear
on standard gearing 14/40 the 16 motor stuggles to hold top gear on even gentle up slopes ..where as the 17 motor will under normal going chug along in the high 60s all day
i think they advertise a extra 2hp but its more than that inso much the cam profiles throttle bodies and exhaust and mapping are not the same ...that results in a totally different reaction when the bike reaches 6k revs ...the older one strts to flatten out and then slowly fall away ..where as the newer one actually starts to kick and there is a little not unpleasent little kick between 6and 8k ..and that translates way better on the road ..t5heres no doubt honda recognised it and in fairness addressed it reasonobly well ..still no idea why they didnt bosh the 300 motor in it though ?

of course you have to adjust your expectations when dealing with 22/24 hp bikes but my point is that the 2017 engine is most deffo the one to go for if possible ...add in the abs and extra travel front forks ..id try if i could the 2017 if you could