The Suzuki DR thread.

[boboneleg]

I can't tell what it is Brenhden, from your photos there doesn't seem to be any damage inside the clutch casing? How come those guys that did the work on your engine didn't find that or is that the result of something they did?

Like Phil says, do the NSU screws while you're in there.

PS. I have a 'clutch holding' tool if you want to borrow it when you torque the clutch hub nut.

[Brenhden]

It's the 650.

It's the bearing behind the primary gear. The rest of it is still in there all chewed up.

I'll be having a word with garage tomorrow. I guess when they did the valves they only looked in the top. This has been causing a noise since before they had it. But it's been getting worse. Glad I've spotted it before it hurt the engine.

I'll look into the nsu fix. Isn't that done of the other side?

[boboneleg]

The NSU (neutral sending unit) is where I've pointed the red arrow. You can see one of the screws in your photo, the other is behind the clutch basket.

Check that they are not loose, even if they are tight I would take them out and Loctite them back in as they can come loose.



At least you've found why the engine is noisy (thumbs)

[Brenhden]

Cheers Bob will do.

Hopefully the bike will be fully fit now and I can start using it a bit more

[Tramp]

:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :whistle:


its a strange thing that all the newer dr650se from the usa still have the nsu switch problem while the suzuki xf650 and ccm644 have had zero problems with the nsu switch and they all stem from the same years..

glad youve found the noise.....now a big bit of 4x2 round the head works wonders :laugh: ...why do mechanics only fix what you ask not report on findings of further problems :whistle:

[Brenhden]

:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :whistle:


its a strange thing that all the newer dr650se from the usa still have the nsu switch problem while the suzuki xf650 and ccm644 have had zero problems with the nsu switch and they all stem from the same years..

glad youve found the noise.....now a big bit of 4x2 round the head works wonders :laugh: ...why do mechanics only fix what you ask not report on findings of further problems :whistle:

Wouldn't be acceptable in my business. But then if they did hours of work and achieved nothing I'd be reluctant to pay them for the time.

[bowber]

Had that happen on an Africa Twin years ago. I got the bearing out by grinding down the sides of 2 M6 bolt heads until they fitted in the gap and could be turned 90 degrees into the bearing races, then a bar over the end of the clutch shaft and progressively tightened the 2 bolts and the bearing came out easy (I may have applied a little heat)
New bearing in and back together in no time, took me longer to sort the bolts than do the job.
So as long as the bearing comes out of the clutch side then it shouldn't be too bad to do.

Steve

[bowber]

While I'm here I've a question for the DR350 regulars.
Does any one have any good pictures of the wiring and cable routing?
My bike had been in bits before I got it and I'm sure the cables and wiring were all in the wrong places.

Steve

[boboneleg]

While I'm here I've a question for the DR350 regulars.
Does any one have any good pictures of the wiring and cable routing?
My bike had been in bits before I got it and I'm sure the cables and wiring were all in the wrong places.

Steve

What year and model is it? 'S' or 'E'

[bowber]

Hi Bob, it's meant to be an SP 1993, kick only anyway.
I may have found some wire routing info and it has been routed wrong and some clips are missing but still not got cable routing, I've got a TM33 to go on so the throttle cable routing is slightly different from the CV carb.

Steve