Blocked Oil Screen.

[Thedktor]

I have checked many on DRs and DRZ and they only clog up if something "bad" has happened to the engine, generally a lack of oil leading to overheating and engine damage with loads of metal and carbon particles being pumped round....

This is the gravity feed to the oil pump though the pump will "suck" as well obviously.

I bought a KTM400 that had a engine rebuild after big end went. I changed the oil and found one of the oil screens clogged right up with the remains of the big end, obviously not cleaned by the "professional" mechanic that did the rebuild! Sound familiar?

[Thedktor]

This is the only way the engine gets its oil as everything is pump-fed, gearbox an' all, so its pretty serious! There is a second oil pump which returns the oil from the sump [crankcase] back to the top of the frame, it has its own oil screen but is reasonably self cleaning as its horizontal and most bits fall off when you drain the sump.

You can't clean it as its in the bowels of the engine....

[Hugh]

Greetings,

Sorry to hear of your engine problems, it might be worth letting the repairer know for future reference.

This should also be a warning to owners of Beta Alp and similar machines using oil in frame storage. Kawasaki, in addition to a disposable filter, used to use a similar but much smaller gauge filter inside their crankshafts. At the time most garages did not know of it, with similar disastrous results.

TTFN

Hugh.

[SteveW]

I rode it for 12 miles today and changed the oil and filter.....and checked the screen.

IMG_1790.JPG (161.4 KiB) Viewed 2305 times

An improvement....I'll run it for another 10 miles or so and repeat the procedure.

[bill_qaz]

If you got that in only 12 miles, I would suggest flushing the frame storage out with diesel, then blow out with compressed air before a couple of short mileage oil changes..
I had an oil in frame CCM that got casting sand from the motor in the oil system at only 800 mls and screwed the motor. I used some plastic tubing that fitted in the frame and connected to the compressor push all the way down to the drain and blew it out repeatedly after the diesel wash.

Hope you have caught it in time not to further damage your motor, pretty poor standards from the repair shop

[Richard Simpson Mark II]

I'd agree about the diesel.

It actually has good lubricity (it's what lubricates the fuel pumps and injectors on modern engines, which generate staggering levels of pressure (over 3000 bar) and is often used by garages as an engine flush if car engines get 'stuck' hydraulic tappets.

[SteveW]

Thanks chaps.
I've changed the oil/filter and cleaned the screen. I'm going to do another 10/15 miles today.
Then I'll drop the oil, leave the frame drain plug and screen out and pour a couple of pints of diesel down the filler.
I'll then blow air down the filler.....I'll use a tube to get the air to the bottom of the frame reservoir.
Then flush again with diesel.
Then I'll fill with oil put another filter on, take it for a ride. Then change the oil/filter and check the screen.
Would that be right?

[qcnr]

Yes, just be aware that although diseasel has lubricity, it will destroy and break down engine oil.
So I would do a run, change oil, do another run, then change oil and filter.

[Dark Knight]

My Yamaha 660z uses oil in the frame system, I think that it is probably worth a closer look for any hidden filters.

[bill_qaz]

Thanks chaps.
I've changed the oil/filter and cleaned the screen. I'm going to do another 10/15 miles today.
Then I'll drop the oil, leave the frame drain plug and screen out and pour a couple of pints of diesel down the filler.
I'll then blow air down the filler.....I'll use a tube to get the air to the bottom of the frame reservoir.
Then flush again with diesel.
Then I'll fill with oil put another filter on, take it for a ride. Then change the oil/filter and check the screen.
Would that be right?

Sounds good just make sure diesel residue well blown out before oil fill