BMW independent, Clutch replacement cost R1100

[dave h]

i did one using this as a guide,

dave.

[HoboBeemer]

Ref Big Al, I kinda guest he may be busy and I do not have Facebook as a few have said contact him on there so I was happy to wait to be honest but the other 4 places where fully on advertised as independent services for BMW, I just kinda surprised as I would expect a Clutch to be their bread and butter, after the Clutch pack it is all man hour profit ..

Anyway I had a email saying my small scissor lift is being delivered this morning that will be attached to my "custom" built all singing and dancing piece of scrap wood that makes gearbox removal possible, so all being well the box will be off later for a detailed look..

Thus far for parts and alignment tool, including some Castrol Moly and a few o rings for the Throttle bodies etc it is coming in around 350 quid worth of bits which is way under my expected cost if someone else did it.

I do have some Honda M77 Moly but the general consensus is that it is not the same as the older and recommended Honda moly 60 for the splines?. I have read numerous post where people mix the newer M77 with Wurth SIG 3000 Grease with great results but locally I cannot find it, of course I cannot that would be to easy!!!!. Castrol Molub Moly (formerly optimol) seems to be the go to lube currently, no doubt until it is discontinued ..

I have one seized bolt to contend with on the left hand footrest hanger, had to drill the little bugger so I will deal with that early doors. I am going to re finish a few small parts, and lots of cleaning of normally hard to reach places is on the schedule today, after that the misses can give my back a decent rub.

I will be getting the scented candles out and offering a Vegetable Samosa sacrifice in the hope that the seals are all ok.

[92kk k100lt 193214]

Well I thought I would give a bit of a update,

I contacted 4 different BMW independent places and not one got back to me with a quote and lead time. I guess BMW service must be a booming industry ???..


Decided to do it myself and wear a back brace as I really cannot be hunched over very long, built a decent rolling Gearbox and swing arm holder that I hope works as well in application as it does in my head?. Currently just waiting a few odds and sods before pulling tranny out and doing final inspection of seals etc before Motorworks takes my money..

I think the 6-7 hour job time would be about right if you are well versed and do not come into contact with any seized bolts etc, I estimate about 10 hours for my first attempt and that is with faffing about cleaning stuff and swapping a few other little bits along the way.

I will post up a SOS if anything goes pear shaped!!!

I think the principle will be the same as the clutch/rear main seal on the K bikes. On the K the stand assembly is bolted under the gearbox so you have to support the bike independently. On the K the entire gearbox/stand/drive shaft/rear wheel can literally be rolled out backwards as a complete assembly or you can lift the bike off it and roll forward. I don't know about the R but on the K bike if one goes in at a clutch one would be advised to also swap out the rear crankshaft seal and flywheel O ring etc. If you are working single handed you need to be careful it doesn't move as you separate them, clutch pushrod and stuff like that can get damaged. Replacing some of the removed bolts with longer threaded rods acting as guides is a trick we use. I just bought all the parts and put in all new seals, clutch friction plate, clutch bolts [single use], flywheel nut etc etc. I was left with 2 unused parts I didn't put in, clutch release bearing and pushrod seal [no shoulder to stop it going in too far...likely to go in too ....fall in gearbox...open gearbox to get it out].

Methodical working and patience is the key. I did watch someone get from rolling a bike on to a lift to having the rear main seal out in one hour flat. But then took the time methodically taking things apart as it went back and took the 6/7 hours you are looking at. I also see race guys do clutch swap in 2 hours but that involves no dismantling and everything to hand...being a race bike its open many times and you know you won't be meeting seized fasteners.

[HoboBeemer]

Well I thought I would give a bit of a update,

I contacted 4 different BMW independent places and not one got back to me with a quote and lead time. I guess BMW service must be a booming industry ???..


Decided to do it myself and wear a back brace as I really cannot be hunched over very long, built a decent rolling Gearbox and swing arm holder that I hope works as well in application as it does in my head?. Currently just waiting a few odds and sods before pulling tranny out and doing final inspection of seals etc before Motorworks takes my money..

I think the 6-7 hour job time would be about right if you are well versed and do not come into contact with any seized bolts etc, I estimate about 10 hours for my first attempt and that is with faffing about cleaning stuff and swapping a few other little bits along the way.

I will post up a SOS if anything goes pear shaped!!!

On the K the stand assembly is bolted under the gearbox so you have to support the bike independently. On the K the entire gearbox/stand/drive shaft/rear wheel can literally be rolled out backwards as a complete assembly or you can lift the bike off it and roll forward. I don't know about the R but on the K bike if one goes in at a clutch one would be advised to also swap out the rear crankshaft seal and flywheel O ring etc. If you are working single handed you need to be careful it doesn't move as you separate them, clutch pushrod and stuff like that can get damaged. Replacing some of the removed bolts with longer threaded rods acting as guides is a trick we use.

One of the reasons I am a 1100 fan is the fact it had some commonsense design features, the center stand is luckily mounted to the engine, the jig I have made will hopefully allow one person to undo the housing bolts and so long as everything is adjusted on the jig the whole lot including swing arm and final drive should slide straight out without any downwards movement at all which would bend the push rod.. (That is in theory), as other have said guide pins (Bolts with head cut off) will make this far easier and will be used.

One thing I am starting to question is my use of ACF50, I have spent just as long degreasing parts that where proper gunked up as I have stripping it down, I saw the Missenden flyers channel on the tube recently and a guy on there seemed to question how much muck gets picked up using it. I may try and find a less thick protector although in the end it is only man hours to clean and there is no corrosion where I would have expected it so it certainly does the job.


I will be interested in seeing what the actual clutch measures at, I used the fleeler gauge method and got a width of 4.91mm, (4.8mm Is quoted as minimum, others say 4.5mm?) obviously unable to measure across the rivet as the manual calls for but it is about as good as you will get going through starter motor mounting hole whilst everything is still in place.

[HoboBeemer]

Well tranny off, dolly jig worked great getting the whole assemble off in one go.. Hopefully did not cause any pressure on the push rod?, looks fine..


Good news, Splines are in exceptional condition showing minimal wear, However they are more or less bone dry so are well in need of lube, I could imagine this doing wonders for clutch pull?. Gearbox seal shows zero signs of oil and no residue at the front seal either.

Clutch plate whilst measuring 4.91mm with the feeler gauge and calipers is actually 5.32mm over rivets when measured in hand, Still some life in it but justifiable in replacing rather than reinstalling, if it was 5.5+mm I would just get some new bolts and bash it back in but with a few off road events planned next year starting from a known base is advantageous.

Cleaned all the inner parts of the housing and the good folks at Motorworks should get my parts here Thursday. I think with the money I saved doing the job myself I will buy some new tyres and a set of Barkbusters, I fancy the fetching Hiziv Yellow.

[HoboBeemer]

Well, thought I would say thanks to everyone for the assistance...

Clutch fitted, everything torqued and test ride complete.... I was hoping to have it finished Friday but my back was just a bit to sore, finished it this morning.

Overall not a bad job at all, just time consuming with all the little bits that need attention on a 20 year old bike when you get down to the boiler room, It has made a massive difference in how the bike feels, the clutch pull is like a feather and it is very smooth during pull off from stand still. I changed out a the O rings on the throttle body and a few other bits so touch wood next week after some new tyres I will be ready for this winters off road adventures..