Motion Pro bead breaker tyre levers, I am just rubbish?...

[halfpint]

just cut a few timber wedges at different angles and hammer in a few inches apart and this will ease the bead down , dont use wd 40 just soap will work. the tyres are hard and will give way place the wheel on an old car tyre so the tyre can drop down .

[Richard Simpson Mark II]

Reminds me of when the CX500 came out...the first bike with tubeless tyres.

I worked at Three Cross Garage at the time...we had one in with a puncture.

The motorcycle wheel was too big to fit in the car tyre beadbreaker. We 'improvised' with some bits of wood and a Land Rover!

[WIBO]

As an aside.... A slow ride along the road after pushing the valve into the rim will heat the tyre up and in most cases the bead will pop. If not...side stand onto the warm tyre and it should then pop.

[garyboy]

a few months ago, I rode out with 2 very experienced mates, Tim and Ange, and managed to get a puncture in my rear tyre.
The tyre was a Metzeler unicross (never again!!) and had been a real bugga to get on when cold, from new. It was a real struggle and I managed to put a puncture in the 2 new tubes (twice bitten, once shy) .. mainly due to the very sharp-edged (cheap) new tyre levers I had bought.

20181024_132246 (2) by gary boy, on Flickr

you can see i managed to mangle the rim of my crf250L a bit, as well as destroying the 2 new tubes, and just prayed that i would not get a puncture while on the trails, as i didnt think i could manage the stiff tyre.

Well .. i got the dreaded puncture .. my first in 7 years of trail riding .. and as the rear wheel slewed around and to a stop, i was glad that i was with TIm who i know was very handy with the tools.

He promtly handed me his Motion Pro tyre lever, once the rear wheel was elevated, and waited patiently for me to begin .. doh!!

moi..
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv by gary boy, on Flickr
tyre waiting for moi..
ggggggggggggggg by gary boy, on Flickr

Obviously, the tyre was very warm as it had travelled 100 yards on tarmac and it was a hot day.
But I was shocked how easily the tyre came off .. and at how light and strong the MPro lever was.
Tim reckoned that it had a small lip at the end that helped it grip.
He then painstakingly repaired the inner tube, leaving my spare tube still available for later if needed.

ddddddddddddddddddd by gary boy, on Flickr


It was not a nail puncture .. but `simply` that there was no rim lock fitted (I thought the engine power was too small) causing a complete circuit of deep scuffs along both sides of the tube.

but that is not the end of the story .. a short while later in the year, I was fully loaded and travelling to the taffy Dakar drwg for a fun weekend of camping and drinking, o, and trail riding (marshal) .. when .. guess what .. yep .. another puncture in the same tyre.

I was so pissed off I felt like standing in the middle of the very busy road .. but got rescued by the taffy boys (ta muchly indeed, mates)
.. and the taffy mechanic found the same problem .. even after I had fitted a new rim lock on Tim's advice... see below....

20190428_175111 (2) by gary boy, on Flickr

It turned out that the inner casing of the metzeler had scuffed on the sides and the bands of cross ply on the tyre walls had come away and scuffed and punctured the new tube I had put in (again).

I suggested to the taffy mechanic to use the old tube on top of the (again) new tube, as a buffer .. and it worked!!
Both were on the bike when I sold it.

20190629_134200BBBBBBBBBBBBBbb by gary boy, on Flickr

the last trail

[MotoCP]

As an aside.... A slow ride along the road after pushing the valve into the rim will heat the tyre up and in most cases the bead will pop. If not...side stand onto the warm tyre and it should then pop.

That was my technique of choice a couple of months ago when it was time to remove a Michelin Desert that had been on a while.
The bead was showing no sign of budging but a steady ride up the track sorted it.

You can waste a lot of time and energy bending levers/nipping tubes removing & replacing tyres if your doing it wrong, but like anything, it gets easier with practice.
That’s why I always change my own tyres at home so I know I can sort a puncture when on the trail.

[HoboBeemer]

As an aside.... A slow ride along the road after pushing the valve into the rim will heat the tyre up and in most cases the bead will pop. If not...side stand onto the warm tyre and it should then pop.

That was my technique of choice a couple of months ago when it was time to remove a Michelin Desert that had been on a while.
The bead was showing no sign of budging but a steady ride up the track sorted it.

You can waste a lot of time and energy bending levers/nipping tubes removing & replacing tyres if your doing it wrong, but like anything, it gets easier with practice.
That’s why I always change my own tyres at home so I know I can sort a puncture when on the trail.

I will give that a go, I will be tackling the front on my day off Wednesday... Will give the irons another shot, I will post back if knuckles are not to bloody or if my nut sack has not been demolished when a lever moving at super sonic speed has made impact with it..

Thanks for all for the advise..

[Tramp]

A 6inch g clamp will sort the hardest sidewall....

[Chalky723]

I squirt loads of window cleaner around the tyre/wheel meeting point, then put the first "fork" part of the bead breaker in with a bit of wiggling, second part in & then squeeze together & push down. I then do the same every 4" or so & just keep going round, it goes eventually.

D

[bowber]

They worked on my wifes 750AT a few years ago, it was a warm day though. They worked again a few miles down the road too . The texture inside the tyre had worn the tube (new with the tyre) and it just kept splitting, fortunately we were near a bike shop by then so I shot of and bought a new tube.

Steve