Engine bolt kits
- Asgard
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Re: Engine bolt kits
Careful with Stainless fasteners in Aluminium castings, the 2 metals are quite far apart in the Galvanic scale and any moisture between the 2 turn them into a battery and you get corrosion at the interface, plain high tensile bolts are far better in this regard, the heads might look ugly, but they are far less likely prone to eating the aluminium threads in your casing
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- FatFreddy
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Re: Engine bolt kits
And the winning suggestion is.......!!Richard Simpson Mark II wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2019 8:18 pm Or...buy a silver permanent maker pen and colour in the rust in situ!
- FatFreddy
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Re: Engine bolt kits
Actual brilliant idea that I might even doYoyo wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2019 3:56 pm I had a DRZ with many rusty and corroded bolts, I'm too tight to buy a set so I took each one out and measured it then ordered packs of 10 from eBay for about £2 per pack. I did the whole bike and have loads of spares for less than £20
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- FatFreddy
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Re: Engine bolt kits
A few of these "kits" offer aluminium fasteners (not even considering titanium due to cost). Is aluminium strong enough? And will that sit well in Ali casings?Asgard wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2019 9:19 pm Careful with Stainless fasteners in Aluminium castings, the 2 metals are quite far apart in the Galvanic scale and any moisture between the 2 turn them into a battery and you get corrosion at the interface, plain high tensile bolts are far better in this regard, the heads might look ugly, but they are far less likely prone to eating the aluminium threads in your casing
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Re: Engine bolt kits
My top tip.
Unless the manual specifies Loctite, don't assemble the threads dry.
Some people use copper grease...I used to. Then someone said to me that it was conductive...and would increase galvanic corrosion where dissimilar metals were used (ie a steel screw in an ally hole).
So, I got a tub of this:
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-114487-cor ... spx...also good for chassis applications on dirt bikes because it resists water.
You only need a tiny smear...too much will bind the threads up
Still use the copper stuff on similar metals/very high temp applications though.
Unless the manual specifies Loctite, don't assemble the threads dry.
Some people use copper grease...I used to. Then someone said to me that it was conductive...and would increase galvanic corrosion where dissimilar metals were used (ie a steel screw in an ally hole).
So, I got a tub of this:
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-114487-cor ... spx...also good for chassis applications on dirt bikes because it resists water.
You only need a tiny smear...too much will bind the threads up
Still use the copper stuff on similar metals/very high temp applications though.
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Re: Engine bolt kits
And this is why copper slip is a mechanics best friend one tin has lated me 30 year-end still going.Asgard wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2019 9:19 pm Careful with Stainless fasteners in Aluminium castings, the 2 metals are quite far apart in the Galvanic scale and any moisture between the 2 turn them into a battery and you get corrosion at the interface, plain high tensile bolts are far better in this regard, the heads might look ugly, but they are far less likely prone to eating the aluminium threads in your casing
"I came into this world with nothing and with careful management
I still have most of it left'
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Re: Engine bolt kits
Daveupright has the best answer. Take out the original bolts, clean them and put them back in the bike.
You will be removing the bolts anyway.
You will be doing bolts up anyway.
You won’t have to worry about materials compatibility.
They’ll look right.
Hold tight when using the bench grinder.... you don’t want any ‘ping fuckit’ moments.
You will be removing the bolts anyway.
You will be doing bolts up anyway.
You won’t have to worry about materials compatibility.
They’ll look right.
Hold tight when using the bench grinder.... you don’t want any ‘ping fuckit’ moments.
- Mikekitts81
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Re: Engine bolt kits
Sounds daft but harpic power x10 is good for rusty bolts etc works with exhaust and metals that corrode and rust just make sure you wash it off clean .... put some in a tub and let it work for a minute to saturate the rust then steel wool or wire brush it off ....
Good stuff just dont leave it on the acid in it will eat away at stuff ....great for the rust removal though the bolts may need a few dips and wont come gleaming all the time but gets rid of the crap and rust a treat .....All things built not bought . The only way is adventure .
- Mikekitts81
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Re: Engine bolt kits
My exhaust last week on a project
One wipe down with harpic 10 plus and little toothbrush for a minute and these were the results after now I could have done more and cleaned and polished it better but it worked fine for now All things built not bought . The only way is adventure .