Engine bolt kits

[Asgard]

Careful with Stainless fasteners in Aluminium castings, the 2 metals are quite far apart in the Galvanic scale and any moisture between the 2 turn them into a battery and you get corrosion at the interface, plain high tensile bolts are far better in this regard, the heads might look ugly, but they are far less likely prone to eating the aluminium threads in your casing

[FatFreddy]

Or...buy a silver permanent maker pen and colour in the rust in situ!

And the winning suggestion is.......!!

[FatFreddy]

I had a DRZ with many rusty and corroded bolts, I'm too tight to buy a set so I took each one out and measured it then ordered packs of 10 from eBay for about £2 per pack. I did the whole bike and have loads of spares for less than £20

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Actual brilliant idea that I might even do

[FatFreddy]

Careful with Stainless fasteners in Aluminium castings, the 2 metals are quite far apart in the Galvanic scale and any moisture between the 2 turn them into a battery and you get corrosion at the interface, plain high tensile bolts are far better in this regard, the heads might look ugly, but they are far less likely prone to eating the aluminium threads in your casing

A few of these "kits" offer aluminium fasteners (not even considering titanium due to cost). Is aluminium strong enough? And will that sit well in Ali casings?

[Richard Simpson Mark II]

My top tip.

Unless the manual specifies Loctite, don't assemble the threads dry.

Some people use copper grease...I used to. Then someone said to me that it was conductive...and would increase galvanic corrosion where dissimilar metals were used (ie a steel screw in an ally hole).

So, I got a tub of this:

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-114487-cor ... spx...also good for chassis applications on dirt bikes because it resists water.

You only need a tiny smear...too much will bind the threads up

Still use the copper stuff on similar metals/very high temp applications though.

[mechanic]

Plus one on that. Been using it for years. Never had a problem. It also comes in little handy tubes, but more expensive.

[Benson-1215]

Careful with Stainless fasteners in Aluminium castings, the 2 metals are quite far apart in the Galvanic scale and any moisture between the 2 turn them into a battery and you get corrosion at the interface, plain high tensile bolts are far better in this regard, the heads might look ugly, but they are far less likely prone to eating the aluminium threads in your casing

And this is why copper slip is a mechanics best friend one tin has lated me 30 year-end still going.

[OnHellas]

Daveupright has the best answer. Take out the original bolts, clean them and put them back in the bike.

You will be removing the bolts anyway.
You will be doing bolts up anyway.
You won’t have to worry about materials compatibility.
They’ll look right.

Hold tight when using the bench grinder.... you don’t want any ‘ping fuckit’ moments.

[Mikekitts81]

Sounds daft but harpic power x10 is good for rusty bolts etc works with exhaust and metals that corrode and rust just make sure you wash it off clean .... put some in a tub and let it work for a minute to saturate the rust then steel wool or wire brush it off ....

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Good stuff just dont leave it on the acid in it will eat away at stuff ....great for the rust removal though the bolts may need a few dips and wont come gleaming all the time but gets rid of the crap and rust a treat .....

[Mikekitts81]

My exhaust last week on a project

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One wipe down with harpic 10 plus and little toothbrush for a minute and these were the results after now I could have done more and cleaned and polished it better but it worked fine for now

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