Bike won’t start

[Knighty]

Hi, wonder if someone could help me. I am new to the site, so please bear with me if I get some “site etiquette “ wrong.
I am just coming to the completion of a full restoration of a Yamaha XT600E 4PT 2002 model. Having just installed the tank I thought I would start her up for the first time.
All was good, it was great to hear the new exhaust for the first time. Then the ignition light started flickering, the engine died and there was nothing. I thought power so stuck charger on battery but it was full. Left it over night, came back next morning and the ignition light came back on, so started her up again, only to find it did it again, ignition light started flickering then nothing, no power no lights not turning over, nothing. Went in house for cup of tea ready to start searching for the problem, came back in garage and ignition light came on again. Can anyone advise. Thanks in advance

[Cone]

Flat battery. They can fool you when a cell dies. Show voltage but not have the capacity to do any work.

[Knighty]

Thank you, I will get it checked

[cozi70]

Also check for a bad connection around the ignition key area and battery ground.
I have the later type Yamaha and this is a problem area.

[Scott_rider]

I bet it’s a dodgy earth. Either the battery end or where it connects to the frame. Worth checking both connections are tight.

[zimtim]

Fueling

[garyboy]

Bad earth connection. . even where wires are connected. take off and reconnect. You may find a frayed wire.

[DaveCon]

Definitely sounds like a loose connection rattling loose when the bike is on.

It's bound to be the sidestand switch because it's always the sidestand switch

[Hugh]

Greetings,

I always recommend that before trying to undertake any testing of machine electrical problems that you first check out the battery by recharging (if necessary) and testing both for voltage and amperage which effectively means using a battery charger/tester such an Optimate.

Then, clean and re-secure all earth locations before reconnecting the power lead (often positive red lead on modern bikes). Basically you need to remove the earth leads where they fasten to the frame and battery, using a fine file or emery paper rub the area contact faces until the metal gleams, inspect where the wire enters the connector for fraying or discolouration, reconnect. To confirm connections are good connect a multi meter for resistance and then voltage to check for a return emf - in other words first connect across the battery to check voltage and then move the multi meter earth (negative) connection lead to the various earth positions and you should basically obtain a similar reading less about 0.5 volt.

As a minor modification I often fit an extra lead between the engine and the frame or direct up to the battery earth from the engine as a fall back position. Even if these actions do not cure the problem at least you will have a good starting point to conduct further tests if required.

Once you have completed these simple tests try to start the engine, etc, and get back to us with your results.

TTFN

Hugh.

Ps probably is the side stand or clutch switch but check basics first

[Knighty]

Hi all, thanks for your replies. I left the battery on charge overnight, went back to it this afternoon and again all was good neutral light came on and it fire up. It ran for about 2 minutes then the neutral light flickered again and it died. So I bought a new battery, changed the two fuses on the solenoid, took the negative cable where it is earthed to the engine off, cleaned it all and put it all back together. Nothing, even the neutral light doesn’t,t come on now.
I am not an electrician nor am I an expert in mechanics, but due to the fact nothing is working tells me power from the battery is not doing anything. Would that not narrow the field down a bit? Could it be the solenoid itself? I’m merely following the wires from the battery here hoping to find the fault