Cheaper alternatives to Scottoil

[dodursley]

+1 I have used chainsaw oil for years as I brought a 5l carton of it and still only 1/2 way through it.

[bowber]

But watch it when the temperatures change. Your chain will either be very dry or the bike and rear tyre will be covered.


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That's what my bikes like all the time, I wash it on occasion then the next ride the rear end is covered in oil again, I guess I'm setting the flow too high but then it also cleans the chain.

Steve

[Oop North John]

That's what my bikes like all the time, I wash it on occasion then the next ride the rear end is covered in oil again, I guess I'm setting the flow too high but then it also cleans the chain.

A high flow rate stops the back end getting corroded as well

[bowber]

A high flow rate stops the back end getting corroded as well

Why does your bike look like new at the back but the front looks like it's been in the sea for 20 years?

Steve

[Oop North John]

Why does your bike look like new at the back but the front looks like it's been in the sea for 20 years?

I change my bike's too often for that to happen!

[WIBO]

As an aside someone did mention before that they thought ATF could eat o rings.....

[FatFreddy]

Here we go again

Quite agree, you would have thought this had been done to death

Anyway, any old oil will do but something with an anti-fling component like chainsaw oil is better. Ive used slideway oil which seems OK except it goes quite black a "dirty" looking. Anti-fling is better than thick oil like EP80 because it's quite runny so comes out of the dropper but sticks. You can also mix different oils. My favourite is XXL40 monograde with Aztek 60 slideway oil in hot weather. Cold weather I go for a pure 32 slideway oil. Anything lower than 32 and the "tacky" component won't stay in suspension.

When my stock of this lot runs out I have a tub of red chainsaw oil, which I think is identical to what Scotoil sell.

I think the key is don't use nothing and don't use anything that incorporates a solvent. So for me, anything out of a spray can in a no no. Also anything that becomes a wax (or in other words a grinding paste) is a no no.

Haha, I take it I’m not the first to ask this? I doubt this will be the last FAQ I’ll post on here
Totally agree with you about spray cans, false economy. My VFR had a scottoiler. Had done over 25k on a chain and sprocket set and it still looked like new. Then for some weird reason the reservoir popped... the top ( flow adjuster) came off and emptied it’s contents all over my bike.
I foolishly got a can of spray lube instead of going to the “expense” of a new scottoiler and almost immediately the chain started showing signs of wear and stretching.
Shortly after replaced chain and sprockets and bought a new oiler. Was still looking good after first 10k....but then I sold it to become an apprentice (wannabe?) ABR and pester you lot with stupid questions. Thanks for all the helpful responses.
For what it’s worth, I’ve opted for chainsaw oil....we how it goes eh?

[DaveCon]

That's an odd thing to happen to your Scottoiler. Have you contacted them about it? I've always found them very helpful and they might like to know about your experience with it

[FatFreddy]

No, got admit that although I had every intention of doing so, I never got around to it.
It was mounted under the saddle but not very securely and I suspect I damaged it somehow taking saddle on and off.
Have just filled the one on my current bike with chainsaw oil. Here’s hoping it works ok.

[bowber]

As an aside someone did mention before that they thought ATF could eat o rings.....

I wouldn't have thought so, it's made for auto gearboxes which have seals and o rings so if it damaged them it'd be kind of pointless.
Honda also used to spec it for fork oil.

Steve