Forks and bolts ...

[Mikekitts81]

I'm just going to throw a spanner in the works here . You know the part of the forks you have helicoiled, is it the first bit or the second bit after the split that the bolt goes into. The helicoil should be in the deeper part beyond the split , not the first close to where the head of the bolt goes.......

Good point, it does look as if he has put them in the outer half..you havn't have you mike?

Actually thinking about it, with that style of clamp you wouldnt be able to put an insert into the inner portion of the clamp without drilling a larger clearance hole in the outer part, so the whole helecoil effort is a bit of a non=starter...or am I missunderstanding?

I didn't drill a clearance hole to get the helicoil all way back I just threaded the hole clamp and then turned the helicoils into the back so it just sits in the back ... iam going to use some tiny washer also on the bolts so the contact patch is a little larger than just the bolt anyway so wouldn't have really matter if it was a little bigger for clearance anyway as a washer would work as they are not so right that they would squash the washer in the hole there only 15nm torque which is only a couple of turns past finger tight ...

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[Mikekitts81]

The tool that TreadTrader showed should work, I was in a similar situation recently and made a tool using a small socket which I cut and dremelled to fit the 2 flutes of the embedded tap, it took me about half an hour to make as it's fiddly working at that small size, but worth it

The tools he said I don't think will do the job I threaded it in all way to the end as I went to come back it didn't seem to go easy so I went back in tryed to come out again and then that was the snap ... so I don't think the little rods would be strong enough to bring it out ... I have looked at Cromwells and they do the same Walton extractors but due to it being a 6mm hole and so small I could only imagine that the prongs would be so small they would just bend or snap worth a try I guess before I do anything thou

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[steve the grease]

Ally is usually as soft as soap to tap , so its quite possible that the tap has bottomed in the hole and you have tried to turn it a little bit further and crunch, it bloody snaps . We've all done it once ( or even more than once , Ahem, cough cough) and they are very difficult to get out , especially deep in a hole . The only good thing about ally is that it expands loads more than the steel tap so heating it up to maybe 150- 220 ^C might loosen the tap enough to get it starting to come out and then you are away. Otherwise spark eroding is always an option.

There are also posts online about using Alum to dissolve broken taps / steel studs etc in ally , but I'm no chemist so I don't have a clue if the methods work a simple google search brings up loads. the model engineers forum might be a place to ask......

[Rederic]

Mike if you have no luck over the weekend take the fork leg of , and I will take it into work for you next week, I am away all week at least but it's a option

[Uncle Buck]

Just buy a new motorcycle with stronger bolts. I hear ktm have good bolts.

[Mikekitts81]

Just buy a new motorcycle with stronger bolts. I hear ktm have good bolts.

Ha ha thats quite funny as ktm did use the same forks on there earlier 300 exc and there sx 250 but in around 1998 they got rid of the cnventional style marzocchi and started using usd forks for there excs etc as for stronger bolts i did change from 6.8 to 12.9 grade i think maybe thats wat the problem may have been wen it threaded . I have searched forums and it says a 2002 wr / yz fork will fit with yokes and some washers bu that would mean changing front wheels etc and i only just found mz enduro wheels after a year of searching

[Mikekitts81]

Mike if you have no luck over the weekend take the fork leg of , and I will take it into work for you next week, I am away all week at least but it's a option

I may just take you up on that eric just gonna try the heat etc and see were it goes from there at worst grahams motorcycles have said i can have a new replacement part for 140

[DaveCon]

I didn't drill a clearance hole to get the helicoil all way back I just threaded the hole clamp and then turned the helicoils into the back
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If I read this correctly (apologies if not) I think this is where your problem started. It looks like you cut a thread on top of another thread. It probably means the hole was too tight and the threads overlapping would be very "confusing", with bits chipping off and jamming. If that is the case I cant see you winding it out. Spark eroding will take a long time too (mind you the spark eroder I used was very old).

Your first attempt probably worked because the tap was new (and you were lucky).

If the bikes a keeper, two new fork lowers would be my solution. Good luck