BMW F800GS rear bearing failure

[Cone]

It's a 15 Plate with 7.5k miles

[anthony29040]

You should be able to get a long drift in from the other side.there might be a couple of little cut outs that you could put the drift tip in.I did the fronts on mine and apart from there being a big cerclip under the dust seal it was straight forward.hope you get sorted.

[WIBO]

It's a 15 Plate with 7.5k miles

Only...... wow.....not good Mr BMW

[catcitrus]

If you can get the other bearing out then there might be enough room to get something on the outer race--getting the central spacer out is key. There looks to be evidence of rust there!--waterproof grease behind the seal is your friend!. If you can't get any access with a long drift then possibly a good blob of weld would give you something to hit on--and the welding action may also loosen up the race--but seek professional advice from a BMW mechanic who has been there and done it before!

[Cone]

Nearest BMW garage is 40 miles away, BMW warranty expired, I wont be paying their £80/hour fees. I'm soaking it in lube and going to take it to my local garage in the hope they can put a weld on for me to hit it with. No drift is getting anywhere near it as there is a flange behind the same width as the outer race.

I can say im soo dissappointed in my BMW pretty much from day one ive had problems with it

[EarthWorm]

Sorry If I'm seeing it wrong, but that rusty ring...it's not the retaining circlip left in ....is it?

P.S. if you get really stuck with it and need a hand, PM me there are a couple of things that would probably work and IIRC I am close enough to you

[Britmech]

A ring of weld round the middle of the bearing shrinks it. then weld a washer to the inside on new weld . then drift it out while still warm .

[WIBO]

What I do to drift the outer races out is pour a kettle of boiling water over the hub or two. A long screw driver never a gets good purchase, due to the width of the hub.


A long narrow bar for the rear ( and a smaller diameter bar for the fronts )......anyway...at the end of the bar I hammer it some what like the top of a chisel goes when hit.. a bit of a mushroom. The burr then touches the outer race and whollop that with a club hammer..

Here is the bar for the front bearings. The burr you can see will stop on the race and is enough to ping it out...I'd try that before anything else to be honest....works for me every time . Hope this helps.

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[minkyhead]

it looks like you have nothing at the back to work off ...ive had a similer problem with head bearings ..i managed to spit them diagonal with a dremel ..its important to split diagonal as its much easier to drift em out ..cut diagonal you will get 75 percent or more without scarring the mating surface .the idea is to weaken them as much as poss rather than cut right through

they will then repond to witha bit of persuasion with a fine drift from the outside edge bend to the inside and then split .. a deep groove is enough to weaken them enough to allow the drift to move them inwards ..once weakened it gave way pretty easy

..start to drift at the sharp outside point of the cut where there is little resistance that lifts the bearing at its weakest point and creates a lip to get under em and it gets eassier and easyier to get further in with the drift

id wear eye protection as hardened stuff can be brittle ..you never know if it breaks suddenly


IMG_4189 by minkyhead56, on Flickr

[Thedktor]

Quite clearly water has got into the bearing and rusted it - can't blame BMW for that!

Or to put it another way - if you ride in deep water or use a jet wash then some regular re-greasing of the seals is needed....