There's a chat about em here
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/10-appea ... 578?page=2
New Chain
Re: New Chain
What this chap says.Richard Simpson Mark II wrote:I've tried various makes of chain, and found DID X-rings to be the best that I've used. I've not used Renthal chains, but they are reputed to be very good.
Be aware that there are fake DID chains being traded on the internet.
This is a respected retailer: http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/shop/tran ... ?Brand=DID
Sprockets: be aware that alloy sprockets are not as durable as steel ones.
Also be careful about fitting non-original drive sprockets to the gearbox output. Some are actually too hard, and may damage the shaft, if it is a splined shaft.
Very cheap pattern sprockets may also actually be 'out of round' and will hammer a chain to bits in short order.
If you are doing big miles on a bike then the highest quality is always the most economical choice.
My own preference would be: OE for the output shaft, unless I wanted to change the gearing, in which case I'd go Renthal or Talon. On the wheel, I'd go for a JT steel if durability was a priority, if not I'd go Renthal or Talon.
Renthal and Talon are both respected British manufacturers.
I once bought a chain off eBay, DID which came in a good box but it must have been fake as it stretched like an elastic band, it was almost on the floor halfway through a 100 mile ride out. I do ride hard at times but usually the genuine chain along with sprockets would last 2k miles or thereabouts with a few adjustments towards the end.
Make sure you buy genuine.
Re: New Chain
I buy my BMW parts from Motorworks in Holmfirth (no relation or financial whatnots)(https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Home/index.php)
They offer a good service and I've never faulted their parts. I replaced my original F800 chain at 10,000 miles with a heavy duty chain and I've done 12,000 miles with it without even adjusting it. I can see a bit of wear on the sprockets (pull back the chain at about 9 O Clock position on the rear sprocket with the bike on the main stand, it shouldn't move much) but it's not near needing replacing.
As to changing sprockets; if you're about to put £100 of new chain with all the muck and effort, why not spend another £30 and do the sprockets at the same time and forget about them for (hopefully) 15000 miles :huh:
They offer a good service and I've never faulted their parts. I replaced my original F800 chain at 10,000 miles with a heavy duty chain and I've done 12,000 miles with it without even adjusting it. I can see a bit of wear on the sprockets (pull back the chain at about 9 O Clock position on the rear sprocket with the bike on the main stand, it shouldn't move much) but it's not near needing replacing.
As to changing sprockets; if you're about to put £100 of new chain with all the muck and effort, why not spend another £30 and do the sprockets at the same time and forget about them for (hopefully) 15000 miles :huh:
Re: New Chain
I had a 2010 800 and chain still crap :blink: 12,000 road miles, scotoiler and lots of tlc and it was toast, 28,000 on DID and OEM sprockets and it was mint (thumbs)chrisjk wrote:I had one of the earliest 800 GSs in the country. The OEM chain was made of chocolate and I had to replace mine after about 3000 miles (there was a recall later for the chain). Same story with the wheel bearings, the fronts lasted 1500 miles. I replaced these with a decent set that lasted for the rest of the time I owned the bike.
Re: New Chain
So I'm going to buy one of these DID chain and Afam sprockets
So I'm guessing the bike is far to powerful for a split link and I'll be needing to rivet the link. So on my smaller bikes when ive done the chain riveting I've been able to rivet it with two lump hammers. Im guessing not on this thing.... so without buying a riveting tool what's the easiest way??
So I'm guessing the bike is far to powerful for a split link and I'll be needing to rivet the link. So on my smaller bikes when ive done the chain riveting I've been able to rivet it with two lump hammers. Im guessing not on this thing.... so without buying a riveting tool what's the easiest way??
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Re: New Chain
You can either buy the tool and do it on your own, or get someone to help you and do it this way.
Get your assistant to hold a lump hammer behind the fitted link while it is on the rear sprocket, and carefully spread the two rivet ends of the link using a ball-pein hammer and a suitable punch.
Care must be taken not to over-compress the rivet ends, or the link may go tight.
Get your assistant to hold a lump hammer behind the fitted link while it is on the rear sprocket, and carefully spread the two rivet ends of the link using a ball-pein hammer and a suitable punch.
Care must be taken not to over-compress the rivet ends, or the link may go tight.
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Re: New Chain
You can get the kit including tool for an extra £10
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DID-VX-Chain- ... 2529736640
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DID-VX-Chain- ... 2529736640
Re: New Chain
That looks like the one to go for taRichard Simpson Mark II wrote:You can get the kit including tool for an extra £10
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DID-VX-Chain- ... 2529736640
I can really see the missus' face when I ask her to hold the lump hammer
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Re: New Chain
dont forget to go one tooth up on front sprocket it really does make a difference (thumbs)