Returned to my new DRZ today, which I have had garaged at the mother in laws for the last two weeks since it was bought on the forum. took it for first short ride it performed fine. Then I packed up to head back to London, a couple of miles down the road and it got stuck in gear, I think 3rd.
I continued on a little ways further and have put in the drive of a friend. On inspection the lever seems to be 'dislocated' it's hanging loose resting on the frame and doesn't engage up or down. Clutch operating normally. There is oil dripping from where the axle/pivot pivot point enters the gear box and the lever is very loose on it, lots of play up down in and out.
What do people reckon I should do in the short term? I think I could ride it back, but is that likely to escalate the problem or put me in danger?
It could be left where it is for now..
Many thank, I'm around the corner having a cold drink out of the sun
My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
At the risk of teaching Grannies etc etc...
Is it possible that the problem is as a result of the small bolt that clamps the gear lever to the shaft has come out?
Oil dripping is a worry, but maybe it's the lube from the chain? Fingers x'd for you
!!
Can you upload a pic??
Is it possible that the problem is as a result of the small bolt that clamps the gear lever to the shaft has come out?
Oil dripping is a worry, but maybe it's the lube from the chain? Fingers x'd for you
!!
Can you upload a pic??
Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
Most likely as worn spline in the gear lever. You need to get a new lever if it is because it will eventually wear the spline on the shaft which then means you can never get a new lever to fit properly.
Or as Steve said the bolt could just be loose.
It's quite a common problem on trail bikes, big boots + being slightly out of control = hard use
The lever then becomes slightly loose and then wears from there.
Steve
Or as Steve said the bolt could just be loose.
It's quite a common problem on trail bikes, big boots + being slightly out of control = hard use
The lever then becomes slightly loose and then wears from there.Steve
Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
I'm young and new to all this so don't worry about stating the obvious.
The clamp is certainly loose as I said I'll see if tightening it is all that needs doing
The clamp is certainly loose as I said I'll see if tightening it is all that needs doing
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Mad Hatter
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Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
If it was me I'd take it off and see if the play is in the output shaft it bolts onto, you can have a look at the splines, grooves along, on both of them. If its just the gear lever with knackered splines your alright, if its the output shaft that's a bigger problem unfortunately.
If its stuck in gear I'd doubt riding it would do the box any damage but your clutch probably wouldn't like it. Saying that I've done it myself and if something's come loose in the gearbox and decides to part company y it could end in am expensive painful mess, or not its down to luck.
Hope you sort it mate (thumbs)
If its stuck in gear I'd doubt riding it would do the box any damage but your clutch probably wouldn't like it. Saying that I've done it myself and if something's come loose in the gearbox and decides to part company y it could end in am expensive painful mess, or not its down to luck.
Hope you sort it mate (thumbs)
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diggermanbob
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Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
I think you will find that the gear change shaft has moved in towards the gearbox , allowing it to jam , if you take the casing of the gearbox , you should be able to unjam and push the shaft back through , I think there is a circlip that stops the shaft sliding behind the gear lever , the reason for your oil leak is the shaft moving inwards , not a major job just a bit fiddly , hope that helps.
Having looked at you picture you might be lucky , if you try pulling the gear selector shaft whilst moving the back wheel it might unjam , you will then need to slacken the gear-lever and push it further on to the shaft and re tighten to stop the shaft sliding back in , don't tap the gear-lever on to the shaft or you will push the shaft back in again , hope this makes sense.
Having looked at you picture you might be lucky , if you try pulling the gear selector shaft whilst moving the back wheel it might unjam , you will then need to slacken the gear-lever and push it further on to the shaft and re tighten to stop the shaft sliding back in , don't tap the gear-lever on to the shaft or you will push the shaft back in again , hope this makes sense.
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Richard Simpson Mark II
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Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
The key point here is that there's play 'in and out' as you describe it.
If that play is the lever moving on the shaft then you can tighten as a temp measure, but you should probably look at replacing the lever. To get you home, try packing the shaft out with some thin aluminium from a soft-drink can wrapped around it.
But if the shaft is moving in and out of the casing then the circlip and washer that locate it has gone AWOL and the shaft has become disengaged from the change mechanism on the other side.
This happened to me on my CCM 404DS, which uses the DR-Z engine and gearbox.
It's a relatively easy task to re-engage the change mechanism...if you buy the Clymer manual for your bike it provides a clear explanation with pictures and is an excellent purchase in its own right. You then have to fit the new circlip and washer: you'll need external circlip pliers (quite cheap to buy) to do this.
What I found difficult was getting the washer and circlip ordered from a Suzuki dealer...I tried a couple of small family-owned 'specialist' Suzuki off-road dealers who were rude to the point of being offensive: "It's not worth looking to see if we've got them in stock, and we wouldn't order one for you if we hadn't."
(No thought that...hey...here is someone who we might get some repeat business from if we help him out).
My local Suzuki (and Honda) big franchised dealer hadn't heard of the DR-Z 400 (!), and couldn't find it on their system. It later occured to me that the idiot behind the counter had been looking on the Honda parts computer, but I couldn't face going back!
In the end the excellent Ben at Fowlers Parts in Bristol sorted me out...he didn't even mind that I couldn't provide a Suzuki chassis number for my bike and that the engine number was one allocated to Suzuki of Australia (coz it's a CCM).
If you do need to replace the lever, don't waste money on the Suzuki one which is a bit weak and yet has a sharp spur on the back that can crack the casing. See if you can get an American MSR (Malcolm Smith Racing) one instead. Much stronger material and far better made.
If that play is the lever moving on the shaft then you can tighten as a temp measure, but you should probably look at replacing the lever. To get you home, try packing the shaft out with some thin aluminium from a soft-drink can wrapped around it.
But if the shaft is moving in and out of the casing then the circlip and washer that locate it has gone AWOL and the shaft has become disengaged from the change mechanism on the other side.
This happened to me on my CCM 404DS, which uses the DR-Z engine and gearbox.
It's a relatively easy task to re-engage the change mechanism...if you buy the Clymer manual for your bike it provides a clear explanation with pictures and is an excellent purchase in its own right. You then have to fit the new circlip and washer: you'll need external circlip pliers (quite cheap to buy) to do this.
What I found difficult was getting the washer and circlip ordered from a Suzuki dealer...I tried a couple of small family-owned 'specialist' Suzuki off-road dealers who were rude to the point of being offensive: "It's not worth looking to see if we've got them in stock, and we wouldn't order one for you if we hadn't."
(No thought that...hey...here is someone who we might get some repeat business from if we help him out).
My local Suzuki (and Honda) big franchised dealer hadn't heard of the DR-Z 400 (!), and couldn't find it on their system. It later occured to me that the idiot behind the counter had been looking on the Honda parts computer, but I couldn't face going back!
In the end the excellent Ben at Fowlers Parts in Bristol sorted me out...he didn't even mind that I couldn't provide a Suzuki chassis number for my bike and that the engine number was one allocated to Suzuki of Australia (coz it's a CCM).
If you do need to replace the lever, don't waste money on the Suzuki one which is a bit weak and yet has a sharp spur on the back that can crack the casing. See if you can get an American MSR (Malcolm Smith Racing) one instead. Much stronger material and far better made.
Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
Greetings my friend,
From your photograph the shift shaft outer washer looks to be in place so as others have said it is probably a combination of wear of the shaft splines and/or the shifter lever. You will need to clean the area and remove the lever for inspection.
The attached folder contains scans of Suzuki microfiches which might help you, look at F5.
TTFN
Hugh.
The folder has not attached to my reply
, send me your email address and I will send it to you direct (thumbs)
From your photograph the shift shaft outer washer looks to be in place so as others have said it is probably a combination of wear of the shaft splines and/or the shifter lever. You will need to clean the area and remove the lever for inspection.
The attached folder contains scans of Suzuki microfiches which might help you, look at F5.
- F5.jpg (94.82 KiB) Viewed 2621 times
TTFN
Hugh.
The folder has not attached to my reply
, send me your email address and I will send it to you direct (thumbs)Re: My new DRZ is stuck in gear should I ride it?
Hi all,
thank you for your very helpful advice and suggestions.
It seems that the shifter lever is loose on the shaft, but whether that is because the clamp is loose or because of wear on the shafts splines i'm not sure - i didnt have the correct spanner to get at it. either way it seems the lateral play is the primary problem and thats to do with the shaft itself.
Thank you for those microfiches I will have a closer look in a moment.
diggermanbob, apon further investigation I think you are on the money, couldnt do much about it today so I ditched it at my friends.
Not off to a great start but glad it didnt happen somewhere more out of my way.
Cheers
thank you for your very helpful advice and suggestions.
It seems that the shifter lever is loose on the shaft, but whether that is because the clamp is loose or because of wear on the shafts splines i'm not sure - i didnt have the correct spanner to get at it. either way it seems the lateral play is the primary problem and thats to do with the shaft itself.
Thank you for those microfiches I will have a closer look in a moment.
diggermanbob, apon further investigation I think you are on the money, couldnt do much about it today so I ditched it at my friends.
Not off to a great start but glad it didnt happen somewhere more out of my way.
Cheers
