South American tour

[mark vb]

Best of luck, and I mean that in a sincere way. Keep us posted on your progress.

[ErikGustav2]

Tonight I slept in Nasca. After a day on Pan American without any issues except sand on the road.
I am in a completely different world than some days ago.

This morning I talked with the hotel owner over breakfast.
One topic was that they cleared up the city Ica direct. Using 500 polices. (Large city south of Lima)
But the polices in Juliaca were not seen outside of their office.
She told me the obvious.
Ica is on Pan American. That is of great importance for the whole country.
It has to be open at any cost.

Puno... Blockades there affects only the activists and their supporters, the indigenous population.
So why care. It is enough to protect public buildings and banks.

I only tell what she said. It is not my wording !!

I tell what I see and hear. Not my opinion.

[ChrisCole]

I very much appreciate your interaction and reporting the view of the locals. Not what you would choose to report on but an excellent illustration of what can sadly sometimes be encountered when exploring the world

[ErikGustav2]

How little do I know and can predict. Despite three weeks of coverage from Argentina/Bolivia and 3 weeks in Peru. I wrote earlier that the police gathered 500 people to clear Pan American at Ica.
Next to me at breakfast this morning sat a person who had traveled down from Lima to Nasca the day before. The road was open and there were no problems. I expected a nice drive towards Lima. But when I got to Ica, there were roadblocks in the city. At least 3. The activists had surprised everyone, including the police. I raised the flag.
I managed to get permission to pass all of the blockades. At the exit from Ica, the road turns into High Way, There was a proper barrier and a lot of vehicles in a queue. Her too, they let me through, and only me!! Thanks to the flag? So all of a sudden, I was alone on the Pan American for over 100 km. I found additional road blocks along the way. At one, there was even a girl who wanted a photo with me. It was a very strange feeling to drive for over an hour on a deserted highway. As if the life on earth had ended and I was the only one left. At the last barrier there was also a police patrol. They tried to keep some order in the queues. The police yelled angry at me to move so the ambulances could pass, if needed. Maybe it had something to do with my black and white flag ?? He said that I would have to stay there for 1.5 hours. And that there were no other ways. After a while the boss of block told me Passa! The police said Stop! You stay! The boss said Passa, Passa! So I went on and ignored the police. It was very clear who were in charge at the place. I almost gave they police a finger. But not my style.

From there, the road was open towards Lima.

The only thing that we know is that we can´t predict anything about Peru. We have to live with a turbulent and none predictable situation.
And one thing is for sure. This was not a spontaneous action. It was well planned and organized.

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Here is the map with the new red Interrumpidos

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Alone on the Pan American.
What a once in a lifetime opportunity to take these photos

[ErikGustav2]

The journey through Lima went quite well. It wasn't rush hour, like on the road south. And the GPS probably took a better route.
None of the unrest in Lima was noticed. On the outskirts of Lima,I had a coffee. On TV, riots from Lima and Arequipa were shown. A man wanted to tell me how it really was. And why all this unrest.
For example around Arequipa there are large amounts of minerals. Which are exploited by American companies. And the profits go to the US and corrupt Peruvians. What is invested in Peru ends up in rich coastal areas. Roads, schools, hospitals etc. are built there. But in the eastern regions there is none of this. Only poor and sick workers, Same thing with the oil industry in the Amazonas. And from what I have seen, I have to agree with him. Investments in infrastructure are non-existent in the Puno region.
You can't see this without being affected.

[ErikGustav2]

Background
I arrived in Juliaca on January 2. On the 3rd it was calm and I fixed a lot. They told me that on the 4th you couldn't go anywhere. Because then there would be big demonstrations. A rest day. The 4th: came and the riots broke out. But not as a one-day activity. But it continued without end. After 2 weeks, small signs of improvement were seen. I had no more plans for Cusco, but wanted to go out to Pan American and north. The Puno region was like a war zone. Which people outside have had a hard time understanding.

Problems
1) Out of closed Juliaca incl. all broken glass
2) Roadblocks along the way

Preparations
1) I became friend with Rene who runs a restaurant. He promised to take his MC and drive in front of me and lead me out of the city.
2) Puncture spray and some reparation solution I had. But I bought 3 tire irons and 2 inner tubes.
3) I filled up with 2*4 liters of extra petrol
4) I bought a flag. Activists' flag. Black and white. (After two weeks I had some feeling on when to use it and what is stood for)
5) I gathered information as best I could. But no information could be obtained about the road to Arequipa. And the situation changes quickly.
6) I went for long walks to see Juliaca in different areas/roads.

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Tools

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Tubes

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Flag/Bandera

[ErikGustav2]

Out of Juliaca
The bit through town went better than expected. Slow and careful to avoid punctures No blockages that a motorcycle couldn't pass, on the roads I drove. After the city itself followed a long stretch with lots of things on the way. Rocks, car tires and everything possible. But they had made passage for motorbikes possible. Through a small opening, go slalom or around the obstacles.

[ErikGustav2]

Santa Lucia

I stopped in Santa Lucia for breakfast. I asked about the way forward. They said it had been shut down for 2 weeks. And that no one was allowed to pass. Shit. I drove on and came to a roadblock. It was very well organized. With blockade from both sides. Separated by 100 m. I stopped a bit before. Took off the helmet and gloves and got off the motorcycle. I went over and talked to them. Innocent tourist who has nothing to do with the problems. Nix. Not a chance. I took it easy and waited. I talked a little with others who were waiting. Some claimed there was a way around the blockade. But that it went through a river. One could go there with a small trail bike. But he said it was deep. And that it wouldn't work with a loaded motorcycle like mine. At the roadblock, a group of old women sat as guards. I went there and sat down. They asked who I was, where I came from. And about my trip. Then came the questions about family etc. Then the tease started with me. You will be hungry tonight. You can come to my place and eat. And then sleep with me. She had a bag of coca leaves. And everyone had a good laugh. I had a flag strapped to the dry bag. Rolled up. But a man had seen it. After maybe an hour and a half, one of the old ladies said that maybe I should be allowed to pass. After all, I was innocent. But then I had to remove the stones myself. OK I grabbed a rock, But it wasn't that easy. No, it would have to be a majority decision. No boss here. After a discussion, they decided that I, but only I, would be allowed to pass. One of the old ladies got a kiss on the cheek. I thanked the guards and left.

But after 100 m I came to the blockade from the other side. There was indeed a boss there. Who with a stern voice said turn around!! I explained that they had given me permission. But he did not want to accept. An old lady came up and started asking me what I thought about all this.. I was a little cautious and said that it was difficult for me as a foreigner to understand. It didn't work. The boss picked up the phone and started to record a video. And then came the questions. And I said that the people were right. Big changes are needed. And that the Congress should be impeached and the President should resign. I pointed to my flag and said they had my support. Then I showed my wallet with Che on it. They said then that they lacked a leader. And finally I brought up the United States. Something they didn't do. And said that the US decided over and exploited South America's economy. That all countries should be allowed to decide for themselves. And get the profit themselves from their own assets. Then the boss turned off the recording and said: Pass. I was approved. And I can stand by everything I said. Because I didn't say anything that I think their methods are completely wrong, even though I share their goals. I wonder where that video went? Maybe I'll show up somewhere? But hardly on YouTube.

The pictures show the blockade and the ladies that I spent a lot of time with

[ErikGustav2]

Towards Arequipa
Then it went really well for a while. Nice views of the mountains. Cruising at 4,000 m. Max just over 4,500 m. In one place, car tires burned. But it was fine to pass by MC.
Along the road were remnants of blockades. But it was possible to pass. In one place, there was a demonstration. But I only had to wait 5 minutes and it was done. They would take photos. And I was there holding the flag.

[ErikGustav2]

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More views. Altitude record 4 510 m for Himalayan. Not much power left at that altitude.

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Burning tyres.
Bad quality photo. Sorry. But the only one that I have from this place
But you can see that there is a "gap" on the right side, enough for motorcycles to pass