South American tour

[Flintlock]

Brilliant! keep her lit!

[johnnyboy]

sounds like a fantastic trip , thanks very much for all your effort.

[ErikGustav2]

This part of the Carretera Austral is mainly paved.
But work is still ongoing. And some really twisty areas were gravel. Slow riding at those parts was easy.

Some of the views :

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Looks a little bit like Sweden with "lupiner". As we call these flowers.

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No comments are needed

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A small and nice village.
Even small remote villages are well "designed" Pretty and organized at the same time.
(German influence ?)

[ErikGustav2]

There has been a large improvement to this strech for the last 10 years.
Byt there is still some work onging and to be done.

[ErikGustav2]

Puyuhuapi was founden by Sudeten Germans

Thus in 1935 Puyuhuapi was founded. Walter Hopperdietzel arrived in June, and Ernesto Ludwig in August. Along with Carlos and Otto, these were the four founders of Puyuhuapi. Although Augusto Grosse was part of the initial group, he left shortly afterwards and is consequently not considered one of the true founders.

Their first two houses flooded, having built them a little too close to the shore. The third burned down during a warm summer due to a fault in the chimney.

I stopped there for lunch. A nice little town.

And continued to La Junta.
On a beautiful road, following a lake.
But to narrow road to stop to take photos.

La Junta itself has not much more than a gas station to offer.
But it will serve as a base camp for two detours.

[Tonibe63]

Loving this report, thanks for posting

[ErikGustav2]

Or at least almost to...

From guide:
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Village:
If a visitor to the Carretera Austral has time for only one of the various detours off the main road, this is possibly the most interesting. Founded in 1889, Raúl Marín is actually the oldest inhabited place in the entire province of Aysén, in part for being an obvious access point for the early settlers from Chiloé. It is situated at the confluence of ocean, river and fjord, barely populated (under 500 inhabitants), and boasts spectacular wildlife and vistas. Accessible from La Junta (61 km) via a short ferry ride, or by boat from Chiloé twice a week, and sandwiched between Volcán Melimoyu to the south and Parque Nacional Corcovado to the north, it is hard to find somewhere quite as remote as this even elsewhere along the Carretera Austral.

To get there:
About the route La Junta to Raúl Marín Balmaceda (70 km; 2 hrs including boat crossing; gravel) This road was completed in 2009, some 120 years after its founding, and is truly spectacular, one of the highlights of the region. Depending on traffic, the short boat ride ( 08.30–13.00 & 14.00–19.00; free) across the Río Palena takes only 5 minutes, but the boat can take only six vehicles. This is where the jungle canopy to the north meets the forest canopy to the south.
The initial section of the road is flat, easy gravel until the El Sauce hot springs.
Thereafter the road becomes more treacherous and narrow, with occasional steep sections and tight curves. The river widens as the road approaches Raúl Marín, and is periodically visible in its turquoise splendour. Beware of oncoming vehicles, particularly trucks that often travel in the middle of the road at high speed. There are extended sections of loose gravel. The forest encroaches on the road at times, creating a tunnel effect. The few signposts that exist, invariably warning of dangerous curves ahead, are barely visible as the forest covers them. Huge nalca plants (the oversized rhubarb leaves) can be seen along the way. Towards Raúl Marín the road passes a swamp area.
The final section after the boat crossing is increasingly sandy, so particularly difficule for cyclists and motorcyclists.
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I drove both the flatter part and the one with more hills and curves. The flat part had tracks with little gravel. Unfortunately it was only 2 tracks. So it was about being prepared for meetings. The twisty and hilly part was almost easier to drive. Less gravel and more soil. Better grip. I got to the ferry as it approached land. It slammed in very hard. Water ran over the deck. And it was quite a steep ramp up. Cars had to back up. To be able to drive off. It started to rain. I had no great desire to slip around on wet ramps and metal decks. Especially considering how the captain handled the ferry. The rain put an end to the fun. And maybe just loose sand on the other side? I made the decision to turn around at the ferry. So no isolated village. I tried. And if the ferry had been OK and it hadn't rained, I would have gone over and had a look. But it was a nice MC ride. The Himalayan and I feel more and more in agreement. On the way back, it really let go. I dared to thrust the bike.

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[ErikGustav2]

From the guide
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To get there:
La Junta to Lago Verde (78km; 2hrs; gravel)
As with the Raúl Marín Balmaceda detour, this is one of the most beautiful roads of the region. It is initially flat, passing the northern edge of Lago Rosselot. Shortly after, the road enters a valley which increasingly narrows to a gorge, winding alongside the Río Figueroa. The road is single track and barely visited, but take care of oncoming vehicles and do not stop on curves however tempting the photo opportunity might be. There are steep inclines, hairpin bends and loose gravel, with sheer drops down to the river. Approaching Lago Verde the road emerges from the gorge onto a plain, with a final section of straight road that ends in the village of Lago Verde.
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Before going to Lago Verde, I needed to refuel. At the gas statation, there was a group of other motorcycles. Including a Royal Enfield Interceptor. With an owner from Argentina. He was very happy with the motorcycle.
The road to Lago Verde had a short stretch with a lot of loose gravel. Where they had repaired by putting on a proper layer. But otherwise it was a good road. Some potholes, but nothing serious. The village was beautiful. I took many pictures along the beautiful road. And I did stop. But it easier to place a MC out of the way, then a car.

[ErikGustav2]

From the guide:
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A frontier town without a frontier. Alas, the Argentine side of the border has not been completed, and while in theory it is possible (and permitted) to cross the border, the absence of a critical bridge makes this a treacherous crossing. This is a 160km spectacular round-trip drive beginning and ending in La Junta. Owing to the proximity to Argentina, and the lack of a road connection (the road connecting Lago Verde to the Carretera Austral was completed in 1992), many of the subsequent immigrants were from Argentina.
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The village was beautiful. Small and really quiet. Fantastic that you can live like that.

[ErikGustav2]

Most people use the border crossing at Chile Chico as entry/exit to/from Carretera Austral. And skip the northern part. But I wanted to ride this part for several reasons
a) Parque Pumalin ”If ever there was a reason to visit the northern section of the Carretera Austral, it is Parque Pumalín” At least the Ventisquero campground ”The Ventisquero campground, at the foot of Volcán Michinmahuida, is considered one of the most dramatic and spectacular settings for a campground in Chilean Patagonia”.
b) The Ferry through the fjord ”The ferry ride through Fiordo Comau that separates the majority of the Carretera Austral from the main road network of Chile is a dramatic introduction to what lies in store further south” (If you come from the north)
c) The part in general
d) The exit via Chile Chico would take me to the part of Argentina that I just had visited

The tentative plan was 3 nights.
Pumalin, Enjoying the place.
Caleta Gonzalo (Waiting for the ferry)
Hornopieren

The ride from La Junta started great. Nice views.

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But when I came to the entrance to the southern part of Pumalin. It was closed.

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Also the information center was closed.

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Of course, it was possible to pass the gates and ”wild camp” in the park. But I did not want to do that alone.

So there was no camping in Pumalin.