3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Where you've been and what you done
DanielS
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by DanielS »

We woke up, went through the morning rituals and faffed around for a bit. It was raining so we weren't in any rush to get going and in the end it worked out well as the rain stopped and the roads started to dry up in the heat. We'd locked our bikes up the night before around the back of the hotel so they were out of harm's way and dry at least.

I don't recall us having any hard and fast plans for every day (As they'd go wrong anyhow). Today was going to be some off road as I'd offered to deliver some photos to a Mongolian family who live in a small village about 150km south of us. The photos were taken by a bike rider in 2010 and they really were nice snaps of the family. I guess that just the same as in the rest of the world everyone stores their photos digitally and we rarely print them anymore. For us it's a case that we're lazy, but I suspect that going to a "Kodak Booth" in the middle of Mongolia isn't quite possible so giving them photos is a lovely gesture.

We headed out of Erdenet on more tarmac. We stopped in the town of Bulgan for fuel and snacks. Fuel stations in towns and even villages now seem aplenty with only one town only having 80 octane for our journey. I'm not a big plain water drinker, but I was going through the recommended 2L each and every day easily. In the towns we saw the digital temp displays around 37 degrees.

I stayed with the bikes as Paul went in for water and he treated me to a Twix, what a guy!
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We filled up with fuel, all 4 tanks which always amused the petrol attendant. I have the HotRot Welding 9L aux tank and Paul has the Cameltank which we always kept full. Giving us each about a range of 300 Miles at 60mph. The lowest I got on the entire trip was 250 miles.

A normal sight in Mongolia. We'd see 3 on a bike, 4 on a bike, newborn babies in their mothers' arms and even one newborn being cradled in their fathers' left arm as he rode and throttled with his right!
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35 miles later and the dirt beckoned. We needed to head south to the village for the photos and leave the tarmac. We turned off the road and onto awfully slimy dirt. The top 1 inch was slimy, gooey and horrible to ride on. I hadn't been on the bike for about 2 months so tentatively headed off while slip sliding away. A few seconds later I heard a lot of revving and commotion behind me and I turned around just in time to see Paul drop his bike at about 1mph. The revving was him catching his throttle rocker as the bike went down, so the throttle rocker was promptly removed after that.

We picked the bike up and carried on, but it was clear that the trials were going to be like this all the way. We crested a hill just to scope it out about a mile later.
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We know you can ride off road anywhere and create your own tracks if you want, but I wasn't that desperate. It was still early in our holiday too and I didn't want to risk breaking anything either. So after a brief discussion we decided that we'd give it a miss and head back. The 1 mile had taken us about 10 mins and we had another 50 or 60 to go for the photos. The decision was made easier by the fact that there was a backup photo guy coming a few weeks later anyhow on his own adventure.

Back on the tarmac mostly we headed to the town of Murun, Meren, or whatever other translation you'd like. I preferred "Moron" because I'm a child! The weather was damp still but drying up. The off road was still quite damp in this region though. We'd heard that they'd had 20 days of rain prior to us arriving.
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Another hotel in Moron and a decent dinner of fried beef in the restaurant before retiring to the hotel pub and oogling the Victoria Secret fashion show that was on the TVs there. We spent some time listening to a tour groups' dinner conversation, Aussies and Americans mostly and all I can say is that I'm glad I don't do organised tours with strangers! Paul and I are a much better combination, plus if I want to be left alone then I can just turn up the music in my helmet :)

We got a relatively early night. Today's false start into offroad wouldn't be repeated. Tomorrow really would be offroad as the tarmac road ends in Moron!
ross rider
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by ross rider »

Hi Daniel
Great trip and report. Mongolia is on my list of bike trips.
I have organised a number of trips to N Africa and Iceland and hopefully Mongolia will be next year.
Did you arrange the bike shipping yourself or use a shipping agent, after your experience with customs clearance do you know if it is possible to use a local clearance agent to sort all the paper work etc before you arrive in Russia.
Mark
www.trailridingrhayader.co.uk
DanielS
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by DanielS »

We used Kris (Also known as Sambor) from www.advfactory.com (Check the "Transport" tab on his website)

We shipped to Irkutsk and back from Bishkek. We were the very first ones to ship directly to Irkutsk and had a few teething issues but really it wasn't a show stopper. We delivered our bikes to Kris in Poland and filled out customs forms and itemised out pannier contents which Kris then does a carnet for (No charge to us for Carnet) and this gets translated to Polish and Russian.

Our issues (2 day delay) came at customs in Irkutsk as whoever translated the contents from English to Russian changed things a bit, so I had 14 shirts apparently, Paul has 2 pairs of boots etc. Bureaucracy on the Russian side wanted photos of everything and then redoing the paperwork (and then photos AGAIN and more paperwork). It was a faff but hey ... Paul's suggestion is best. Ship the bikes and empty panniers. Take the rest of your stuff with you as hand baggage on the plane, you should do it in a few hours in that case.

Bishkek was a pleasure, we dropped the bikes off, left the import documentation we received at the Kyrgyzstan border with them and they should be back in Poland in a month or so. Hope this helps.
DanielS
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by DanielS »

We left Moron the following morning after a sausage and egg breakfast at the hotel. I don't know what it is about Mongolia but whenever we had a meal in a cafe or hotel, you don't get knives. It became a bit of amusement as I'd have to get my Gerber knife off the bike.

Sure enough, 2 miles out of the town the tarmac ended and the dirt began. I still couldn't read the signs without really using my crib sheet that was in the tank bag. The second one looked a bit like "Fart" though :)
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It was nice going, the surface was good and the tracks were nice. We were the first on these for the day I think and the light overnight rain hadn't yet dried. Unfortunately this caught Paul out though as what looked like a hardpack sand berm was actually just soft sand and it didn't do any help on getting him around the corner when he used it. I was right behind Paul at the time and it was quite spectacular as he was going at a decent speed and launched himself off the bike into a quite elegant roly poly. He later mentioned this was all on purpose to protect his shoulder and arm as he didn't want to put them out and risk breaking them. Sensible man!
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While I was having a laugh at his expense and getting my camera out, a chap coming the other way helped Paul lift the bike up. The horses didn't seem amused, what long faces.
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The scenery and riding conditions this day were great. Nothing too technical and good tracks. We passed yurts, green valleys, streams and rocky hills. This was brilliant and we were having a great time. At one point, still learning that tracks mostly all meet up somewhere, Paul and I got split up. I'd taken the southerly track and him the northerly one. There was nothing to worry about but since it was the first day I was a bit concerned that in a perfectly flat place, with nobody around, that I'd lost Paul. I backtracked a few km and even paid attention to the tracks at the forks to see which way he had gone. Eventually found him about 45 minutes later. He was parked up having a rest after racing 2 local kids on their Shineray. They beat him fair and square. Local knowledge, small bikes and the gift of youth (The kids, not Paul :) )
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Here are some photos from the awesome riding condition that day.
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DanielS
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by DanielS »

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We stopped for some water in a little town. Most town had a couple of shops and perhaps a cafe. They often doubled as people's houses too. I think this one was a cafe but they sold us some water. I didn't fancy the meat dish.
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The monuments where the blue ribbons are tied to are everywhere. I believe it's a prayer ribbon and symbolises the blue sky. This one also had money placed under rocks so Paul and I did our part and hoped it would perhaps bring us good luck.
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There were a few of these little critters hiding around in the rocks. Quite amusing to watch.
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One thing I never got a good photo of were the eagles. There are plenty of them everywhere. Later in the trip I saw about 18 all in the sky at once. Magnificent, shame about the photo.
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The riding was absolutely brilliant. What a great country (and X-Country)
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This family called us over as we were riding past. People would often do that and they just wanted a chat and to meet you. Fabulous people. He even fancied a swap I reckon.
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We'd covered about 100 miles which really was good on our first day offroad. Mongolia is that type of place where around every corner, over every hill, down every valley and in every town you want to stop and take a photo and we'd been doing just that. It takes up a lot of time but it's worth it.

We left the track and went up behind some hills so we weren't visible from the road and set up camp for the night. We weren't scared or threatened but we just wanted to chill out and prefered not to have curious passerbys waking us up too early :)

We set up camp, cooked our food, had a coffee and chat and called it a night. Paul's food was amusing, he'd bought 2 types and one was "Mountain House" freeze dried food. He wasn't keen and I must admit, it looked like baby sick, even if it did taste ok apparently. I'd stick with my "Look what we found", not many calories and heavy, but delicious and mixed in with some rice.

We hoped every day would be like this, it was amazing.
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Wildman
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by Wildman »

DanielS wrote:... I was right behind Paul at the time and it was quite spectacular as he was going at a decent speed and launched himself off the bike into a quite elegant roly poly. He later mentioned this was all on purpose to protect his shoulder and arm as he didn't want to put them out and risk breaking them. Sensible man!
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... ]
Just had to take some painkillers for my ribs that I think I originally hurt in that "off". Funny that they weren't a problem on the trip but now I'm home, they're more than just a little bit tender.
DanielS
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by DanielS »

Wildman wrote: Just had to take some painkillers for my ribs that I think I originally hurt in that "off". Funny that they weren't a problem on the trip but now I'm home, they're more than just a little bit tender.
Oops, hope they're ok and the pain goes away. Nothing that a whiskey and coke can't fix.
ross rider
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by ross rider »

Nice report and photos

Mark
www.trailridingrhayader.co.uk
bikenav
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by bikenav »

good report looks a great place to go thanks for the effort
DanielS
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Re: 3 weeks around Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Post by DanielS »

Every night we camped was great. Most nights there was a breeze which cooled it down a little to be bearable and the silence was amazing. We never had any dew or rain of any type so everything was always packed away nice and dry which is always good. Nothing as bad as packing up a wet tent ... and then unpacking it that evening.

Anyhow, we got underway to clear blue skies yet again. Horses are everywhere and run wild a lot of the time it appears.
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This particular horse was trying to stare down Paul
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Paul was having none of it and was staring it down too!
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Needless to say, the horse won and so Paul fell off :D
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It really was a low speed, almost stationary fall over, lapse of concentration but no harm done. We picked up the bike and carried on. Just before a small water crossing we stopped at this yurt and had a break while watching these two chaps fix a problem with their bike. They really are amazing and can fix virtually anything, I guess it's a case of necessity in their world. Nice guys too even though language was a problem like normal.
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The small water crossing was just that, but it was fun. Here's Paul going through it while adopting the correct pose. Good man.
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We made our way nice and steadily towards Tsetserleg which was one of the nicest town we came across. They're all pretty nice really but the people we met here were especially nice.
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One of the few things we had that would always spark common interest and advice were Paul's maps. I even learned the Russian word for them "Karta" which if you think about it is quite obvious. Anyhow, the guys came over and gave us advice on which routes to take and just for a chat and have a look around the bikes. Mongolian people are great and I keep comparing them to inquisitive children, they want to touch, prod, poke sit on the bikes etc and mean no harm at all. It's nice. I think the overall greater attention grabber was the F800GS with it's adventurous looks and cool angles but little did they know, they were on the best bikes out of us all. Their little Shineray bikes were brilliant.
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