11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

The black art of moving from A to B on foreign soil
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

Day12 - 14/05/10
End: Toledo, Spain
181km / 2411km (Day / Total)
Alcazar
Alcazar
05-14 (11).JPG (119.07 KiB) Viewed 648 times
Took advantage of the hotel to look after my bags while I explored the town of Segovia, very much enjoying the Alcazar and the Cathedral. Found a bike shop that could sell me a replacement for the broken clutch lever from my fall in the Pyrenees which was a reassurance, and then set off again.
cathedral
cathedral
05-14 (1).JPG (128.98 KiB) Viewed 648 times
Unbelievably I managed to find an even colder place to ride as I headed up above the snowline through El Puerto De Navacerada (1860m) and then down some incredibly busy roads around Madrid before accidentally stumbling across the world heritage site of El Escorial - royal seat and monastery.
P1020999.JPG
P1020999.JPG (106.12 KiB) Viewed 648 times
Ongoing cold meant a change of plan as I decided to go south rather than back over the mountains to Avila. The route was uninspiring with a lot of dull towns and with the bike feeling worryingly rough at speed on a few enforced motorway sections I eventually made it into Toledo and a pricey and greenery free campsite just as the heavens opened once more! Wonderful. . .

The rain in Spain falls mainly on the British touring motorcyclist!!
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

P1030014.JPG
P1030014.JPG (91.7 KiB) Viewed 648 times
P1030026.JPG
P1030026.JPG (91.11 KiB) Viewed 648 times
P1030018.JPG
P1030018.JPG (95.48 KiB) Viewed 648 times
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

Day13 - 15/05/10
End: Toledo, Spain
15km / 2426km (Day / Total)

Woke up to blazing sunshine and a temperature induced headache with the change from yesterdays high of 7°C to 27°C at 9am here!!
05-15 (2).JPG
05-15 (2).JPG (117.73 KiB) Viewed 647 times
I decided to postpone sightseeing until I had investigated the rough running of the bike and discovered that the footpeg mounting bolts had worked loose and the countershaft sprocket was floating freely in the shaft. It transpired that the garage that had fitted the new chain and sprockets had installed the keeper ring 180° out so that the chain was eating into the frame of the bike!!
Feeling very pleased with these easy repairs I set off into the town in good spirits to investigate.
05-15 (4).JPG
05-15 (4).JPG (104.38 KiB) Viewed 647 times
Toledo was making the most of it's weapon-smithing heritage with shops full of reproduction swords and armour everywhere. Had a look at the numerous and excellent sights of the town and then bought some supplies and went back to the campsite as my head was only getting worse. Lying in the tent after some tablets I was disturbed by repeated fireworks going off close by so I set off to investigate and ended up crashing a wedding in the grounds of the ex-convent next door.
05-15 (21).JPG
05-15 (21).JPG (122.25 KiB) Viewed 647 times
Back at the campsite I found what can only be described as Spanish chavs having a disco / barbecue in the previously remote and empty corner that I had been occupying. This went on all night with up to 20 of them blundering around drinking, shouting, fighting and generally pissing me off. As the night got colder they abandoned their tents and got into their cars, with the engines running and stereos switched on, booming out ethnically tinged Euro-Disco, with their kids whining constantly through the din. They managed to persevere with the torment until 6am when they bundled all their shit back in the cars and fucked off!! Headache not improved!!

Had a good conversation with a Dutch author and RTW traveller in the town and as I was carrying a bag containing bread and water he did comment that I was slumming my way round but being able to more or less subsist on bread, cheese and salami is one of the joys of travel and a positive choice, rather than a low cost option imho.

I asked him what the high- and low-points of his trips were, to which he replied 'the freedom, but also the loneliness'!
Well timed words, like so many other conversations so far this trip. At least it has finally stopped raining!!
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

05-15 (53).JPG
05-15 (53).JPG (91.05 KiB) Viewed 647 times
05-15 (50).JPG
05-15 (50).JPG (138.18 KiB) Viewed 647 times
05-15 (9).JPG
05-15 (9).JPG (124.5 KiB) Viewed 647 times
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

Day14 - 16/05/10
End: Fuencaliente, Spain
299km / 2725km (Day / Total)

l slept in until late and after throwing away lots of things I felt were likely to be superfluous to the trip I finally hit the road at midday headed for Cordoba, via the Tablas de Daimiel; a wetland reserve. Tagged along with a German biker for a while and just let the miles tick by through varied and sun-drenched scenery.
05-16 (14).JPG
05-16 (14).JPG (157.36 KiB) Viewed 645 times
I arrived at a sign for Daimiel and ended up following a dirt track for twenty miles to arrive at the wrong side of the park, eventually having to retrace my tracks. It has become clear that the TomTom really have no idea about Spain and the road atlas is proving much more reliable. I eventually find the visitor entrance and walk the boardwalk trail in the most wildlife-poor (albeit very pretty) nature reserve I have ever visited!
05-16 (33).JPG
05-16 (33).JPG (133.74 KiB) Viewed 645 times
I was glad to back on the bike in the baking heat and rode on the the hilltop fortress of Castillo Convento de Calatrave La Nueva, which was not only open but free to enter, although the horrible cobbled spiral track leading up to the car park did it's best to shake my bike into it's component pieces.
05-16 (92).JPG
05-16 (92).JPG (129.66 KiB) Viewed 645 times
After a good look round I rode on past a huge solar power station complex and circumnavigated a surprisingly ancient looking industrial area that had apparently been built since the satnav maps were last updated,three weeks ago! I think TomTom keep their spanish maps updated from a well thumbed 1973 road atlas, possibly missing some key pages. Appallingly bad.

As evening loomed I pressed on through open country (enlivened by a stop at an abandoned fuel station and motel with a very dead, rotting rottweiler?!?) until I dropped into the Valle de Alcudia, which looked for all the world like the serengeti, but with cattle rather than antelope! However the Satnav earned its crust and came up trumps with a cracking campsite at Fuencaliente when it became clear that I wasn't going to make Cordoba tonight.
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

05-16 (55).JPG
05-16 (55).JPG (140.87 KiB) Viewed 643 times
05-16 (75)a.jpg
05-16 (75)a.jpg (143.08 KiB) Viewed 643 times
05-16 (94).JPG
05-16 (94).JPG (94.49 KiB) Viewed 643 times
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

Day15 - 17/05/10

End: Almodovar Del Rio, Spain
189km / 2914km (Day / Total)
05-17 (11).JPG
05-17 (11).JPG (143.9 KiB) Viewed 642 times
I woke late again but the beautifully shady campsite ensured I wasn't dying of headstroke despite the 30°C heat and was on my way by 11am, although I stopped almost immediately to photograph half a dozen griffon vultures circling lazily just above me after I had disturbed their roost in a tree by the roadside. A quick wander round the Parque Nacional Sierra du Andujar (home to wolves and the spanish lynx) and then a push on to Cordoba.

Just as I hit the city limits the clutch went spongy and then I felt the cable snap! I hit the kill switch and coasted to a halt but after only twenty minutes and verbal encouragement from some nearby workmen a new cable had been fitted and I was parked up by the bridge across the Guadalquivir river opposite the Mezquita. 
05-17 (42).JPG
05-17 (42).JPG (135.3 KiB) Viewed 642 times
This very impressive site was a rather barking arrangement of a Moorish mosque that had a huge and entirely typical Spanish cathedral simply built right in the middle. Cultural subjugation? Er, yep.
05-17 (49).JPG
05-17 (49).JPG (85.76 KiB) Viewed 642 times
After eyeing up numerous pretty Japanese tourists (mostly women!!) and having a good look round I was back on my bike and being told off by a Spanish policeman for attempting to shortcut across a pedestrian area to the road. Feeling suitably chastised I motored off past the Medina Azahara and the fabulous hilltop parador at Almodovar del Rio out onto the plains when the engine suddenly stopped and the bike coasted to a halt in the blazing sun. Bugger!

There were no obvious signs of life from the bike and given the heat I elected to push it quarter of a mile to the shade of some trees I had just passed and started to check the Tengai over. I soon discovered there was no fuel in the float bowl although I had just filled the tank! It transpired that when fitting the clutch cable I had dislodged the vacuum pipe to the fuel tap and once it was reconnected fuel flowed and the bike fired up.

After two breakdowns in quick succession I decided to find a campsite and ended up having a meal with a group of British waterskiers by the lake at La Brena, and then spent the evening drinking with three attractive (again, female. I hadn't been alone for that long) Norwegian graphic designers . A good day, breakdowns not withstanding. Gibraltar tomorrow!
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

05-17 (90).JPG
05-17 (90).JPG (153.04 KiB) Viewed 642 times
05-17 (106).JPG
05-17 (106).JPG (105.37 KiB) Viewed 642 times
05-17 (118).JPG
05-17 (118).JPG (92.03 KiB) Viewed 642 times
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

Day16 - 18/05/10
End: Linea de la Conception, Spain (Gibraltar)
335km / 3249km (Day / Total)

After an early start on dusty and treacherously slick mountain roads with the back wheel stepping out several times, I headed to Ronda where I completely failed  to have notice the spectacularly sited town and instead headed for the incredibly dull ruins of Acinipo, which I arrived at just as the custodian was closing for his siesta.
05-18 (3).JPG
05-18 (3).JPG (92.67 KiB) Viewed 641 times
He obviously refused me entry and retreated to his hut for lunch so rather than wait for two hours I expressed my disdain for this jobsworth attitude by taking a piss in the car park and then took the rollercoaster road from Ronda to Algeciras so beloved of motorcycle test riders. An awesome strip of tarmac with the 'Rock' visible in the distance on several stretches and soon I was in the traffic chaos of Gibraltar for a quick recce.
05-18 (34)a.jpg
05-18 (34)a.jpg (78.02 KiB) Viewed 641 times
I have often heard it said that Gibraltar is like England in the fifties. Wrong. The only similarity is the language and a few English touches like M&S, English pubs and red phone boxes. It was crazy busy with about two million mopeds buzzing everywhere. I followed my nose and ended up at the southern-most point where, to my great surprise, the last building before Morocco (apart from the lighthouse) was a very smart white mosque!  The roads up on the rock required a toll so I elected to leave it until tomorrow and retreated from the chaos to a nice verdant campsite in La Linea.
05-18 (41).JPG
05-18 (41).JPG (97.4 KiB) Viewed 641 times
After a walk along the beach  and a few snaps I stopped for a  nice fish supper and several beers in a Spanish sea front eatery before I retired to the tent!
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
BurningGiraffe
Posts: 109
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:37 pm
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 39 times

Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by BurningGiraffe »

Day17 - 19/05/10
End: Linea de la Conception, Spain (Gibraltar)
61km / 3310km (Day / Total)

Woke early thanks to the German Motorhomers camped behind me and lay in the tent, enjoying the shade of the trees in the campsite. Blissful. Feeling no little trepidation about crossing into Morocco so today I will forget it all and check out Gibraltar.
05-19 (2).JPG
05-19 (2).JPG (84.79 KiB) Viewed 641 times
Rode through the Gibraltan Border causing a delay as I couldn't locate the pocket with my passport (most other times it didn't even get checked!!)and then headed onto the toll road for the rock itself. Checked out the Spur battery and O'Hara's battery and was very impressed with the impregnability of the place. The observers were below the omnipresent 'Levant' cloud cover and would send the co-ordinates to the, effectively invisible, Artillery batteries located on the top of the rock. Smart.
05-19 (158).JPG
05-19 (158).JPG (194.62 KiB) Viewed 641 times
Barbary Apes everywhere and I saw one draw blood on a woman's leg when she tried to hide her food from it. Strangely shy about looking into the camera though so I have several photographs of them looking disdainfully into the distance and studiously ignoring me.
05-19 (14).JPG
05-19 (14).JPG (106.04 KiB) Viewed 641 times
The official tourist office was no help whatsoever on the subject of visiting Morocco but I did some admin in a local Internet cafe and then hit the Pub for Pie and chips, washed down with beer! Feeling very content to be somewhere I can communicate again.
Link to my travels webpage:



http://BearingsUnlimited.blogspot.co.uk
Post Reply

Return to “TRAVEL”