I spent a glorious week in South Africa last autumn exploring the country’s Western Cape by motorcycle.
The riding was sublime, the landscape spectacular, and the culture fascinating.
But despite enjoying every mile covered in the southern hemisphere, there is one memory from the trip that sticks most clearly in my mind, and it involved searching for great white sharks.
Let me explain. I’d been riding along one of the most spectacular coastal roads on the planet, Clarence Drive near Cape Town, when our tour group pulled over to bask in the views of the South Atlantic Ocean.
Nearby was a sign that warned swimmers about the presence of sharks below the surface of the water, and a little further down the road was a lookout hut used by a team of volunteers to spot these magnificent creatures and provide an early warning for beachgoers.
Having grown up watching Jaws films, we all spent the next hour passing a pair of binoculars around searching for the apex predator of the oceans.
A wave of excitement shot through the group when someone shouted that they thought they’d spotted something but, alas, it was a false alarm and we left South Africa without as seeing as much as a dorsal fin.
But that afternoon got me thinking. We’d all had so much fun trying to spot a great white, I wondered if I could recreate the experience back home by plotting a shark safari around the UK coast, travelling by motorcycle on brilliant coastal roads, of course.
Sadly, the approaching UK winter put the idea on the back burner until the good folks at Shark Helmets got in touch, wanting to collaborate on a UK route for an issue of Adventure Bike Rider magazine. Call it serendipity, call it fate, or simply coincidence, but I jumped at the chance to finally embark on a ride I’d been itching to do for months.
And what better helmet to wear on a UK shark spotting safari than one from Shark Helmets? This is going to be a lot of fun.
SHARK INFESTED WATERS
A little desk research soon revealed some 40 species of shark living off the coast of Britain, and that Cornwall is our island nation’s shark spotting capital.
The planets had aligned once more because Cornwall just happens to boast some of the best coastal riding in England: think a rollercoaster of twisting roads plunging down to secluded bays with golden sands stretching for miles.
In the waters off this seaside paradise, you’ll find the shortfin mako shark (the fastest in the sea), common thresher sharks (known for their unusually large tails), and the Greenland shark (the second largest carnivorous shark after the great white), among others.
Sadly, the chances of seeing any of them from the shore is slim to none, but there is one magnificent shark that migrates to UK waters between May and October that is sighted with regularly from land each year: the enormous basking shark.
This marine creature is the second largest fish living in the ocean, second only to the whale shark, and can reach sizes of up to 40ft, which is about the same length of a double-decker bus.
And while the basking shark’s cavernous gaping mouth may look ready to gobble up an unfortunate swimmer or surfer, they are in fact plankton eaters that can filter the equivalent of an Olympic-sized swimming pool worth of water (2.5 million litres) in just one hour while feeding.
Their name originates from the fact they enjoy basking at the water’s surface, often near headlands, bays, and islands with strong tidal flows and lots of plankton.
THE SAFARI BEGINS
So, armed with a list of basking shark spotting hot spots, and a sensational route in mind along the north coast of Cornwall linking them together, Billy and I set off to explore, without forgetting to first equip Shark’s excellent GT Pro Carbon helmet.
I’d be riding the new for 2024 BMW R 1300 GS, while Billy was astride Royal Enfield’s Himalayan 450, both sporting luggage packed with tents and sleeping bags for a night under the stars on the Cornish coast.
An early morning start saw us zip down the M5 and A30 from the Midlands before finding ourselves at the starting point of our journey, Trevose Head, just outside Padstow.
If you plan on staying in Cornwall the night before you ride this route, Padstow has plenty of accommodation options and an abundance of pubs and restaurants.
About five miles around the coast is Trevose Head Lighthouse perched on a spectacular headland. After riding along a narrow and twisting road, park up at the second National Trust Car Park you come across which is located about 150 yards from the lighthouse.
From here, grab your binoculars and take a stroll out to Dinas Head to see if you can spot a basking shark feeding in the waters below. A few years ago, orcas (killer whales) were also spotted from here but, sadly, Bill and I didn’t see any marine life, although the view of Constantine Bay to the left was a worthy consolation.
Back on the bikes, we retraced our tyre tracks down the from the headland and travelled south on a spectacular twisting road. We plunged down valley sides to the tiny resorts of Mawgan Porth and Watergate Bay before climbing back out of them on wriggling roads with a few hairpin turns to enjoy along the way.
All too soon we reached the outskirts of Newquay and cruised through the bustling seaside town with its beautiful sandy bay to our right. Dolphins and basking sharks have been spotted off Newquay in the past, so keep your eyes peeled.
With stomachs rumbling, we headed to a new motorcycle bar/café that has opened in town called Project Eighty Three.
It serves great coffee, a sensational sausage roll, and also has indoor bike parking.
We grabbed a bite to eat and lounged on the leather sofas, sorely tempted by the cold beers on tap, but with plenty of riding ahead, we stuck to an alcohol-free option.
THE NORTH COAST
Feeling sated, we continued our journey along the north coast of Cornwall along sweeping B-roads, before plunging down into the seaside resort of Perranporth and then onto St Agnes, where we picked up Beacon Drive with its glorious views of the Atlantic.
Here we stopped at the National Trust Wheal Coates car park and took a short stroll to the series of dramatic ruins perched on the cliff top that give a close-up glimpse of Cornwall’s mining past.
It’s a spectacular setting carpeted with wildflowers and offering stunning views of the coastline for miles.
Back on the bikes, we journeyed on along yet more twisting coastal roads through the picturesque seaside villages of Porthtowan and Portreath before turning off along narrow single lane roads to Godrevy Point and headland, another shark spotting hotspot.
The area can get crowded in the summer, but the majestic views of are worth sharing. It’s a 10-minute uphill stroll to Godrevy Point along the South West Coast Path.
From here, Bill and I broke out the binoculars and once again scanned the seas for basking sharks, but to no avail.
Undeterred, we continued on, skirting St Ives Bay until we reached the town of the same name which is one of the most picturesque places in the whole of Cornwall.
A cluster of fisherman’s cottages tumble down the hillside to a fishing harbour, golden beaches, and turquoise waters.
A huge basking shark was seen swimming in the harbour last year, so park up on the harbour arm and see if you can see one for yourself.
Bill and I weren’t in luck, but an ice cream acted as a consolation. And if you want to see some marine life, you can take an underwater sea safari in a glass-bottomed boat from St Ives harbour, which has been known to encounter basking sharks.
Leaving St Ives, we soon joined one of the best coastal roads in Britain, the B3306 to St Just.
This stunning route unfurls along the edge of Britain taking you on a rollercoaster of tight, twisting lanes before the landscape opens up and you’re given sensational views of the ocean to your right. It’s an exquisite road I’ve ridden multiple times, and one I never tire of.
Following a stop to scan the waters next to Pendeen Lighthouse without a shark in sight, we travelled south to Sennen Cove, the most westerly surf spot in the UK with its beautiful crescent beach and a quaint harbour town.
Groups of basking sharks were spotted in the area last year, so Bill and I broke out the binoculars and searched the sea for dorsal fins.
Alas, we were once again disappointed, and if the same happens to you, I suggest a look around the RNLI lifeboat station and its impressive Tamar class lifeboat.
SAFARI’S END
We now headed inland for the final stop on our shark spotting safari, passing the signs for Land’s End and on to the white sandy beach and turquoise waters of Porthcurno, another location basking sharks have been regularly spotted over the years.
The tiny coastal village is also known as the home of the first international telegraph cable which linked Britain to India in 1970.
I’d recommend bypassing the town’s main carpark and riding up a road called The Valley, before following the signs for the Minnack Theatre, an open-air theatre located on the cliff edge which makes for some dramatic performances.
Follow the road to the end where you can park up, grab a coffee from the café, and take a short stroll along the South West Coast Path for a spectacular view of Porthcurno Bay.
Eager to finally see a basking shark on our safari, we scanned the waters, our eyes straining for slightest change in colouration of the waters.
Sadly, despite our best efforts, our ride had ended without spotting one of these magnificent creatures.
With the day coming to an end, it was time to think about somewhere to stay.
Handily, there are countless campsites dotting in far west of Cornwall, with the simple yet idyllic Treen Farm Campsite being the nearest to Porthcurno, some two miles away.
However, Billy and I decided we fancied fish and chips and a couple of pints, so we made the 40-minute ride across country on fantastic roads back to St Ives where we pitched up at Ayr Holiday Park overlooking the town’s beach.
Over a couple of pints of Doom Bar, we lamented the fact we hadn’t seen any basking sharks, but to be honest, we didn’t care.
The real joy of the day has been indulging in some incredible riding with a mate along the spectacular Cornish coast. But who knows, you may have more luck spotting sharks than we did.
SHARK GT PRO CARBON HELMET
Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any sharks this time but luckily I had brought my own. While riding this route, I wore the Shark GT Pro Carbon helmet for the first time and it has quickly become my go-to road helmet.
Not only do I have full confidence in its carbon/fibreglass shell construction, but it’s comfortable throughout big days in the saddle, which is just what I need on tour.
The little windshield on my Royal Enfield Himalayan isn’t the best for handling motorway speeds, but the GT Pro Carbon is sleek and aerodynamic enough to make any buffeting negligible, something I massively appreciated heading down the M5 to Cornwall.
Plus, with plenty of easily accessible vents and a drop-down sun visor, the GT Pro Carbon was ideal for the warm weather we had while riding down there.
I also enjoy its sharp looks, and I certainly didn’t look out of place in the trendier parts of Newquay. I’d certainly recommend checking out the GT Pro Carbon if you’re in the market for your next lid.
Click here to discover more about the helmet.
THE ROUTE
Plug these waypoints into your SatNav device to follow as near as dammit the route. You can also find a GPX file to follow at www.bit.ly/ABRsharksafari
- Trevose Head Lighthouse, PL28 8SL, ///retain.stocked.salary
- Bedruthan Hotel and Spa, TR8 4BU, ///drops.trustees.increment
- Mawgan Porth, TR8 4BA, ///newsreel.flank.wants
- Project Eighty Three, Wesley Yard, Newquay, TR7 1LB, ///waltz.snuggle.variously
- Perranporth, TR6 0BJ, ///hands.liability.regarding
- Beacon Drive, St Agnes, TR5 0ST, ///compacts.slugs.nooks
- Wheal Coates, St Agnes, TR5 0NT///bounding.someone.calculating
- Porthtowan, TR4 8AS, ///shred.heartache.tutored
- Portreath, TR16 4LA, ///mailers.vowel.waving
- Godrevy Car Park, TR27 5ED, ///winemaker.shining.clattered
- Smeatons Pier, St Ives, TR26 1PT, ///videos.token.saucepan
- Zennor, TR6 3DA, ///emulated.pulsing.belief
- Pendeen Lighthouse Car Park, TR19 7ED, ///inhales.fancied.cleanest
- Botallack, Penzance TR19 7QG, ///identity.rhino.shades
- Sennen Cove Harbour Car Park, TR19 7DB, ///grumbling.contained.fulfilled
- The Minnack Theatre, Porthcurno, TR19 6JU, ///spooked.remarking.kebab
SHARK SPOTTING LOCATIONS
These locations harbour your best chance of spotting mega marine life from the shore, so grab your binoculars and keep your eyes peeled.
- Trevose Head
- Watergate Bay
- Wheal Coates
- Godrevy Head
- St Ives Harbour
- Pendeen Head
- Sennen Cove
- Porthcurno
