A well planned trip makes for less chance of failure and disappointment so therefore we started early with enough time for everything to fall into place and no last minute rushing around trying to find kit and get bikes prepared.
The trip was scheduled to take place between the warm autumn days and the coming of the great floods at the beginning of May. The route was to incorporate loads of dirt from Pretoria SA to Maun Bots via the Makgadkigadi pans and back.

Our group consisted of a pair of KTM 640 adventures, BMW 1200GS, BMW 1200 GS Adventure and me on my KTM 990.
The bikes were mechanically prepped and fitted with panniers, top boxes, tank bags and navigational aids, off road tires and protective plastics.
Lists were compiled of what to take and what each person would carry. Each rider had to be self sufficient for 2 days before we could restock. We were all seasoned off road riders and we knew a trip like this was going to be a tough ride on the loaded and heavy adventure bikes. Taking skill levels and experience into consideration was an important step when planning the trip as less experienced riders put themselves and the success of the tour at risk when demanding riding conditions arise. Fortunately for us our group was a mixed bunch who all had different skills, from mechanical, medical and navigational skills to outdoor/ survival and we even had a few jesters thrown in for good measure to keep us going when the going got tough.

Our lists included water, food, tents and bedding. Fuel was going to be a challenge, so I had to carry 5lt extra for my thirsty KTM 990.The range was around the 180ml mark depending on the terrain. The 640’s would comfortably cover 220 ml and the big BMW’s were the petrol bowsers in case I ran short.
A rented satellite phone is always a good idea in remote parts of Africa far from assistance, hospital access or mobile phone towers. Details such as medical insurance numbers and blood groups were printed on helmet stickers worn by each rider for easy access.
I carried the first aid kit to deal with common riding injuries, snake and spider bites and the problems associated with dehydration and rural water consumption.
In addition to the bike tool kits a list of common spare parts developed which included spare tube, punctures repair kit, brake and clutch levers, fuel line/ filters, jumper cables, oil, brake fluid, tow straps, spark plugs, chain links, Pratley steel, cable ties and of course the brilliant duct tape.

The route had been planned down to the last detail from available printed maps, tracks for Africa software, Google maps (to physically see the route we had chosen) and a few calls to friend and contacts that had visited Botswana before. This route was then uploaded to each person’s GPS in case we got split up, everyone knew where to go.

(KTM vs BMW)

The day finally arrived and we set out with our heavily laden iron horses from our respective homes in Pretoria to meet up at the Sun City fuel stop some 80 miles away. From there our route took us North West on dirt roads to the purposely chosen out of the way Sikwane border post.
As expected, it was quiet and customs was a breeze. On the Botswana side the officials were friendly and everything had to be completed in duplicate with carbon paper which took a while longer, we had begun our adventure, so it really didn’t matter.

Amongst the dirt roads were asphalt stretches to deal with but this gave us time to relax and listen to music while cruising the A1main route to Dibete.
Now was time to fill up the rehydration packs and top up the fuel before we entered the real African bush and lost touch with modern society. We planned to exit town and follow local unpaved seldom traveled roads along vet fences and cutlines which crisscross the country side. 30mls later we turned onto a twin track of thick sand which would take us to our overnight stop.
Around the 8ml mark of energy sapping sand work we stopped to regroup. The 640’s were happily coping with the thick sand and thorn bushes at 40mph with minimum effort while the heavier 990 was becoming a hand full and the BMW’s were really struggling with the extra weight and smaller front wheels. These bikes are just not as nimble for slow deep sand riding as their counterparts are and it was decided that we would set up camp and make a route adjustment in the morning.
That night a real feast was laid on as the BMW boys tried desperately to rid their bikes of excess weight. I never knew so much food and drink could be fitted into a pannier. A lesson learned for future adventures!
The desert air rapidly cooled down and by midnight it was freezing. Between the random snoring and icy night time temperatures of the approaching winter, few of us enjoyed any length of decent sleep.
The distance covered for the day was 410mls


(Thick sandy paths, not a dual sports friend)




A stunning sun rise was enjoyed with coffee and biscuits and as the decision had been made to find an alternative path, we located a supply route on our GPS units and by mid-morning we were traversing the Acacia lined landscape with suitable dust gaps to the nearest mud constructed, corrugated iron roofed village for a stop at the local shabeen (tavern).
By now we had rejoined our original route and were enjoying the scenery from small grass and mud constructed villages to dry pans and the mighty African bush.
A brief stop to rehydrate and have a light meal in Otse then it was back on the route to Kodibeleng and then Shoshong. From there we traveled on asphalt to Serowe and Letlhakane where we filled up with fuel and water and continued off road through some ugly twin sand tracks which left us battling the heavy beasts and fighting off the thorn bushes which were ripping at our jackets and gear. On occasion, in order to keep the momentum, the big KTM turned into a giant chain saw and ripped right through some smaller thorn bushes. At this point I was just the passenger!

(Hard work with 250 plus kilograms. Note the GS on its side in the far background)

Light was fading fast, so a suitable site was found and our camp was quickly set up and fire wood collected as we knew that another cold night lay ahead.
Supper was a concoction of tined food and rice in foil bags that filled our hungry stomachs and was washed down with powder soft drink mix. The campfire banter was accompanied by Old Brown Sherry to keep the chill at bay and stories of the day’s thrills and spills. For this night we came prepared and went to bed with jacket liners, beanies, pants and socks. The sounds of snoring soon drifted off and we enjoyed a good night sleep.
The distance covered for the day was 250mls.


Today’s mission today was to reach the capital city Maun. The backup vehicle driven by our wives had run parallel to us on the A1motorway and was approaching the city. After coffee and biscuits we departed from our overnight stop outside Letlhakane on some sandy tracks and hard pack dirt roads to a breakfast stop called the “Karmasutra Liquor Rest” Yes , you guessed it, a tavern!
A few more miles of deep sand and we made our way to one of the cut lines, 20 meter wide dead straight graded dirt roads designed to control bush fires in the dry season that enabled us to reach speeds of 80mph. Fantastic! A very welcome and pleasant change from the deep sandy tracks.
Quickly reaching our asphalt link to Mopipi, the country side started changing to a barren landscape with sparse vegetation and then it opened up to our first sight of a huge pan around the town where we filled up and took on water which we carefully treated to avoid infection and stopped at the local tavern for a nice cold well deserved beer.
Beer is probably the safest fluid to drink in any town, no matter where you are in Southern Africa!
Later that day we stopped in the town of Rakops for some lunch and were immediately surrounded by the local children eager to get a glimpse of these strange travelers. Tinned Spam, fresh bread were a welcome snack after hours fighting the elements from our saddles. This is where we introduced the local children to some western culture by dishing out drops of Tobasco to those who were willing to try. The crowd erupted with laughter after seeing their friends faces and soon backed off to a safe distance from the Tobasco wielding “Mlungu’s” (white man)
Our original plan called for us to do another energy sapping sand section which would take us from Mananga Gate to Segoro but because the bigger bikes would struggle and there was plenty dirt fun ahead we decided to continue on asphalt and 3 hrs later we arrived in Maun and to our final destination for the end of day 3. A hot shower, chance to strip off riding gear and a cold beer was waiting for us and an enjoyable night with our hosts was spent alongside the Boro River. Clean, warm beds awaited our heavy heads and no one heard a thing.
The distance covered for day 3 was 180mls

Day 4 was planned as a rest day, so this gave us a chance to reflect on our journey, catch up with family members who drove the backup vehicle and do some laundry. One of the 640’s had developed a bit of an engine noise and we had the opportunity to check it out. A noisy tappet had been the culprit which was quickly adjusted but we were still a bit worried about the amount of play that was evident on the rockers.

A bit of fishing and a boat trip up the river was the highlight for the day and as we lazed around this beautiful setting, the African sun sank and we barbequed fresh meat on an open fire.


The next morning we fueled up and left Maun along the A3 asphalt road for the long trek to Gweta and planet Baobab, a great pub and bush resort in the middle of nowhere. En route trouble struck as the 640 with the noisy tappets started to fade. A call to the backup vehicle which would shadow us to Makgadkigadi was made and a rendezvous point was established for pick up. The big GS 1200 towed the stricken little KTM the remainder of the way (app 80mls) to Planet baobab where we settled down to relax in the cool thatch building while waiting for the backup.

(The pub at planet baobab, note the Amstel chandeliers)

We expected the backup vehicle to join us with enough time for us to reach our destination of Kubu Island but they were delayed and only arrived an hour or so before sunset. This meant that the remaining 60miles of scrub, thorn bushes, stones and talcum powder dust to Kubu Island would be done after dark!

We set out with the pick-up close on our heels riding in formation and when the dust got too bad we split up into pairs. Even though riding off road after dark is risky we pushed on. Fortunately illumination wasn’t a major problem because the big adventure bikes have very good lights and before long we were all loving the adventure. With night fall came the nocturnal animals and around every thorn bush the fields were full of wild hare’s who darted across the paths at the last possible moment almost causing a few tumbles.

(After dark adventure, 60 kms of dust, more dust and rabbits. Did you know that Old Brown Sherry gives you night vision?)

We made occasional stops to regroup and before we knew it, in front of our eyes was the biggest pan we had ever seen. The moon light was just enough to make out the horizon and the huge open space. We had reached the edge of one of the world’s biggest pans, Makgadkigadi.
We set up camp and settled down to a supper of heated tin food and foil packets. There was no campfire that night as there is no firewood on the pan. Instead we absorbed our captivating surroundings, being completely exposed and without lights, so far from civilization with the bright night and billions of stars staring back at us. This is what adventure riding is all about and sights like this will remain with us for a forever.
The distance covered for this day was 190miles
(Due South)


(Very fresh sunrise on the pans)

After the mandatory photo shoot and a visit to the Island of Kubu we set off through the pans enroute to Mosu. Riding on the pans is a fun experience but one has to be on the lookout for areas where the thin crust gives way to slippery patches and traction becomes sporadic, rear wheels try and overtake the front and braking is not an option. A firm hand full of throttle usually keeps your heading although there are moments when you have flashes of being airborne after being spat off your pony!
More tight winding thorn covered bush paths greet us as we exited the pan and headed to hard pack dirt roads which turned to tar as we approached Letlhakane

(Heading out from Kubu Island in pairs creating a suitable dust gap)


We refueled and had lunch before leaving for an uneventful long asphalt stretch to Serowe, Palaype and then the border at Martins Drift. This was a good opportunity to turn up the iPod and enjoy the passing scenery.
Customs went smoothly and shortly after an enjoyable hot shower we were sitting on the banks of the Limpopo River on the stunning deck at the Kwonokeng lodge having a cold beer and taking in the beautiful sites and sounds.
An excellent dinner on the deck and drinks around a cozy indoor fire was a fine way to conclude another dusty day in Africa.
The distance covered this day was 240 miles


After a hearty egg and bacon breakfast we hit the road. Heading home was all asphalt and it’s almost as if the bikes knew it. Good time was made and soon Nylstroom and Bela Bela were in our rear view mirrors.
We felt strangely alienated riding back into the political capital city of Pretoria. At every traffic light people would stare at these dusty travelers and wonder where they had been. Little did they know of the tremendous adventure we had just completed in the breathtaking Botswana landscape


Distance covered was app 250 miles

Total distance was 1750 miles